Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Rattlenbang wrote:There's lots of fiddling you can do, but given the hp to weight ratio of these vans, I suspect the biggest problem you are having could be lead foot. If you aren't showing clouds of black exhaust, it idles and runs nice and smooth, and has appropriate power, you can probably say the engine is working fine. I get about 25 imperial miles to the gallon with my L300, and that's dealing with mountain roads. But I'm a fairly conservative driver and rarely go over 100 and let her slow down on steep hills. If you were dealing with an engine issue that dropped your mileage down that far, I'm pretty sure it would be noticeable in how the engine was running. Try going slow and easy for awhile and see if it doesn't significantly improve your fuel consumption.

True, If you invest in an EGT, you should be able to see if this is your problem or not.

Results: Round 1 (pre sea foam in any shape or form)


Overall story: So, hypothesis of just about everyone of slowing down and riding steady has shown significant improvement in fuel economy.

Interactions: I added a few oz (100ml) of the power diesel stuff too. Hmmm, interacting variables!

Procedure : I did a 160 km this last Thursday

Data obtained: I got a whopping 12.6 l/100KM (or 18.75 mpg).

That's not 8 L.100km (or Rattlenbang's 25 miles per imperial gallon (30 mpg / 7.8 L/100km) but we're on the way hopefully!

By the way, "You can't trust that Flibble guy. I sure don't." That's the point, eh? Trust (or consider) the data, not the person. Though I do like people too!

Now to see if I can tap my high school chemistry memory banks about titration, Fibble! Thanks for the thoughts and the humour to Fibbles and non Fibbles.

And I'm about to get an EGT, recommendations that are current? (too yet provide more data to me and all on lookers) :)


Also, nxski, the end of my exhaust is that 3 plus inch thing, meaning it's just an exhaust tip that came my Delica.


Peace,

NewDeli

Tyre pressure is very important and get a k&n filter helps them breath way better.

Do you have any "oil leaks"? I thought I was leaking oil from my rocker cover gasket, but it was actually diesel running down the engine and picking up dirt and going black. The seal between the governor cover and the main injection pump body was leaking fuel. That will play hell with your mileage. I doubt tune will throw it off that badly.

Out of tune... Will throw it off. Nothing like dumping fuel at the wrong time.

Rattlenbang; Hmmm. I think I may have a little oil leak… and Firesong, I suppose a tune up wouldn’t be a bad thing….

Keep you posted. It’s parked for the next couple of days.

peace, NewDeli!

I see you have done about everything you can. The only thing left is to install an EGT this will give you a real time idea of fuel consumption do to exhaust temp do not go over 1100. Also maybe slow down over 105 my mileage drop to 15 L/100km. I drive the Malahat everyday back and for to work and get 475 km to 50 L. Also get rid of your auto locking hubs. After a good highway drive walk around and feel your hubs they should be warm but not hot. Might have a dragging brake or hubs need fresh grease

Ok; Legionnair;

Well, fair enough... Mardi had recommended that to me last month. Do you have thoughts about the least expensive meter that is effective?

This one for example seems pretty cool (but not too attractive!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITAL-EGT-THE ... b6&vxp=mtr


or similar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGT-Probe-Digit ... d0&vxp=mtr

or?

atlas... (the real deal?)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Autometer-3 ... ab&vxp=mtr

or if I grub some cash:

3In1 Black Face Boost, Digital Pyrometer, And Temperature Gauge -

http://www.carkitsonline.com/product/?id=1053252

(this one seems really cool because it's boost, pyro and temp of something else of my choosing (transmission, oil, or coolant temperature from 68 to 302 degrees Fahrenheit"


or:

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-Ram ... QgodKS8Ahg


Best

NewDeli

07/07/2013


and hmmmmm.

Changing out the autolocking hubs? Honestly, I don't know anything, anything about 4 wheel driving (yet!!!).

If you have occasion to throw it up on a hoist, spin the tires. If you can't - or it is very difficult - chances are you have a seized brake cylinder. This will obviously affect your mileage and brake pad life.

It sounds like a simple thing, but 2 of the 3 JDM vehicles I have brought over here had this issue. It's an age thing... and after 15+ years, not an unusual occurrence.

Current data

11.91 L/100km or 19.75 mpg (better, inchingly so)

bbisset

brilliant idea...

As soon as I get it up on a hoist, I'll check the spin...

Peace

New Deli!

Had another thought that stemmed from a UK Pajero site... if your A/T switch is in the "PWR" mode (and your dash light indicating same is burnt out), you will greatly affect your fuel economy according to this thread.

If you are not sure what lights I am referring to, see a description here - page 4. Also some very useful info on EGRs listed in Chapter 10.

Worth checking out...

I run an autometer one. Some people have problems with them but I believe it comes down to poor ground and poor routing of wire these meters are very sensitive to inductive voltage do to the lack of twisted wires to cancel this. What ever one you choose drive normal and you will be shocked how fast the temps climb.

Have a good one

Just as a point of comparison, the 4G64 gas model is EPA rated at 18 city/21 highway (old EPA rating system), but I get about 21 city/in town and up to 24 MPG highway (running synthetic engine oil, and standard transmission fluid/differential fluid)
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculat ... =1&id=7301

Of course, you have to clean the distributor cap/rotor and spark plugs to keep up the MPG.

I would prefer a manual transmission, but they never offered that in the US-spec versions. The US-specs got essentially the same automatic transmission as a similar generation Montero.

I would like to switch from 4.22 final to 3.54 to max out the MPG (all on road driving with low loads)