Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

You say the ticking is just for a few minutes after startup. Just the morning startup / after sitting a number of hours, or with even a quick stop and restart? My VW Syncro and Toyota Liteace was/is very picky about an oil filter with a good anti-drain back valve. If an oil filter without one, or with one that malfunctioned (ie FRAM) the oil filter would drain dry after a few hours of sitting and on next start I would be greeted with tickity tick tick tickity tick tickity tick tick for a few minutes.

Are you using a different oil filter than normal. I know you have teh AMSOIL bypass filter unit installed, quite a few complaints of ticking and ADBV fails on the full flow AMSOIL oil filters if you are using one. An oil/filter change is cheap enough that at worst you got fresh oil, best case the ticking goes away.

When I was looking into pyros, I researched about autometer gauges and wasn't too pleased with what I read. It doesn't sound like they're too reliable in the long term.

I went for the RichD special: the auber gauge: Works super well and is really accurate. The company is based in the states from what I understand, so you could probably get a gauge shipped to your location expressed and have it the next day.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... ucts_id=19

You wouldn't need to get new thermocouple etc I don't think, so the gauge is only $50. I'm assuming you should be able to just remove the autometer one and quickly wire in the auber one.

For the clicking - have you looked at your glow plug relay? Every so often mine clicks after start-up randomly, maybe yours is doing the same?

Good luck!

-Steve

My best guess:

Pinhole leak between the EGR blanking plate and exhaust manifold. Did you use high heat silicone to seal the blanking plate, an EGR metal gasket, muffler cement? Perhaps it has failed. Solution, pop the drivers seat off, get a closer look and listen using DJjack's method.

Hope you manage to figure this out soon! May the force be with you.

adjust valve lash maybe tick problem

The oil filter could be it, I'm going to get new oil but since I've only done just over a quarter of what I should be able to drive I don't like the sound of that option (I'm using 15W-40 Royal Purple synthetic which costs $300 at normal price and the filters aren't cheap either). Also, my oil cap is leaking more now that the temperature is hot. The level is still lookig good but I think it's gone down by about 1/4-1/2L since it was filled last so I should top it off.

EGR blanking plate could also be it, I'd forgotten about that, I'd planned to look at it not long ago. I didn't use any sealant when installing it so that would be a good idea, maybe it's worked itself loose. Is there anything to be concerned about other than noise if this is the case?

I'm still planning to take it to a mechanic in Moab though so suggestions on good mechanics would be great as well!

Thanks again for all the responses, it's great to have such quick feedback when my time is so limited.

EDIT: The ticking occurs after every time I turn the engine on unless I only leave it sitting for a very short time. eg) after half an hour of sitting I can turn it on and have it tick. That being said it's worse after a cold start and takes longer to go away. I managed to take a good video and am working on getting it posted as soon as possible.

Here are 2 videos taken around 9000ft.

The first shows what the van sounds like normally or once it's warmed up (I accidentally had the window open a crack so it sounds a bit louder than it should for that reason)

The second shows what the van is like after it's just been started. The whine you hear when I shift into second (or at higher revs) is a new sympton, the ticking has been going on for a while but it hadn't been so pronounced until yesterday.

EDIT: In case you can't view the embedded videos (I can't for some reason), here are the links in order...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aV60pDqp5HY&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bn205osm1Fg&feature=plcp

Sounds like an exhaust leak, take a flash light and look around for black streaks and soot will give you an idea of where the leak is.

Dustin

legionnair wrote:Sounds like an exhaust leak, take a flash light and look around for black streaks and soot will give you an idea of where the leak is.

Dustin

That would the ideal and I'm thinking it's probably coming from the EGR, too bad looking for soot is impossible with the amount of oil on the engine. Does anyone know of a oil cap that is sold in North America that will work on the L300's? If it's an exhaust leak I should be fine to drive right, just a bit noisier than usual?

I'd go with exhaust leak too. Any of the gaskets on the manifold, or a crack in the manifold itself. You can usually locate the source by moving your hand around the area while blipping the throttle - being careful not to get burned of course.
If you can confirm that's the problem then other than being annoying it's unlikely to cause any further dramas.

For the oil cap,check for Hyundai between 1986-2000 and many chrysler with Mitsubishi engine
from the same era.Better,any Mitsubishi car in USA.

And it really sound like a crack in the exhaust manifold or a bad exhaust manifold gasket.

Agree with the exhaust leak, Sometimes it will seal a bit better when its hot as the metal expands and becomes louder when cold.

Joe

Nick...get a piece of hose like heater hose...one end to ear and one end to motor....move around and find noise...it works.

nxski wrote:..... Does anyone know of a oil cap that is sold in North America that will work on the L300's? .....

If the oil cap rubber seal is intact then what you can do is make another thin gasket and slip it under the existing seal, that should stop your leak. If your rubber seal is not intact then why not make another one? Bit of rubber cut to shape......
Good Luck... smiles.

Falco.

Thanks again for the responses. I'm in Moab now, I sourced an oil cap from a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L Turbo Diesel which has a slightly different metal peice on the bottom that can easily be swapped out. I also couldn't find a single place that stocks EGT gauges but will be ordering one in on Monday. Any suggestions for which Auto Meter gauge to get to replace my current Phantom one (I only want the gauge, not the probe).

As for the exhaust leak, I will be taking it in to a mechanic to try to find it and hopefully fix the problem if possible. I will also be getting my rear 4X4 u-joint replaced as it is quite slack.

nxski wrote:...... I sourced an oil cap from a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L Turbo Diesel ........

Good idea Nxski, I forgot about the Ranger.

Falco.