Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I tested the tension of my ps, ac, and alt belts today and I noticed that one of the alternator belt was considerable looser then the other. I assume this is because there not an exact match. I'll change them out next opportunity I get.

Also, a few of you mentioned my idle sounded a little high. It is at around 700-750 on a cold start. After you guys mentioned that I've been watching the idle a lot more and notice that after the van has been running for a while the idle goes up to around 1000. Is this normal or do I have a problem?

Fishtank wrote:Jason, to use the manual throttle, press your accelerator pedal to the RPM you desire. Then pull the knob out till it stops and turn it clockwise (tighten) to lock it in place. You may also feel the cable pull some of the pressure off the accelerator pedal when you do this.

Tried this out, and it works like a charm. Can't wait to try it out when it gets colder. Thanks.

- Jason

It sounds like it's idling a bit high in that case. You want to have it running at 750 when warm and you can use the throttle control to keep it around 750-1000 until it gets warm enough to stay there on it's own.

Another observation I've made is that the warm idle is fine 750rpm on the nose while in gear. If I'm in park or neutral it going to 1000rpms. Should this still be of concern?

Here is that old Tokyo Roki fuel filter I pulled off my van. I'm no mechanic, but that looks like it was overdo for a change (by a couple years!)

Have to ask... is the a/c on? that'll make the rpm's jump

No, the AC is definitely not on. Well, according to the dash controls at least its not. Is there a quick way of telling if the switch has malfunctioned or something and AC actually is on?

Does the AC belt spin when the AC is turned off?

- Jason

It should be 750 in neutral or park, lower in gear and idling, the A/C belt spins all the time, and is loaded by a clutch in the compressor, otherwise the compressor freewheels.

yojimbo wrote:

Fishtank wrote:
By the way, this stubby 12mm ratchet is awesome for such work!

I did my belts yesterday, unfortunately I wasn't able to get a stubby racket wrench. I went a bought a regular 12mm stubby combination wrench at a pawn shop before I started. Had I not done that, I would have been so screwed for tightening the alt tensioner bolt! I still can't get over how poorly placed that bolt was!

I will post a video of my start tonight so you guys can hear the difference. It is pretty significant. Thanks again for all the useful tips. This forum and everybody on it is awesome.

Just a side note. The ac belt (9305) listed on https://www.socialtext.net/delica/acces ... ated_parts didn't fit on mine. I had to replace it with a 9370? Anybody else encountered this? I thought i'd mention it for the next person that runs into this, so it'll show up in a search.

- Jason

FalcoColumbarius wrote:If the A/C does come on the idle should not jump 250 RPM. It's very minor on my wagon, or on others.

Falco.

P.S.: What year is your Delica? I understand that from '93 on the Starwagon went from a manual throttle to an automatic throttle. Perhaps you should look at that?

@Falco - Just realized I never answered you. It is a 91 Exceed.

Here is a video of the start now after having done the belts:



Definitely a noticeable improvement. Now just need to troubleshoot the idle problem. So exactly how much should the AC make the idle jump because as it stands now, it doesn't increase at all. Thanks all.

- Jason

sigurross wrote:So exactly how much should the AC make the idle jump because as it stands now, it doesn't increase at all. Thanks all.

- Jason

That's exactly what you want, as long as it's actually engaging the A/C pump and blowing cold.

Cold air to be sure the a/c is working for sure, but remember, with the heat on the a/c is great for clearing foggy windows and hot too...

Ok so here are some video examples of my idle issues.

This is a cold start idle:



And this is my idle when the engine has been running for a while:



Though, i didn't demonstration this in the warm idle video. Engaging and disengaging the AC makes no difference what so ever.

The most annoying thing about this problem is the van lurks forward when the engine is warm when I go from N or P into gear. Probably the sudden decrease in RPMs.

Anyway, any comments or suggestions on fixing this?

I can't view the video's on my phone at the moment but the lurching is normal. Essentially you're putting the engine in gear and giving it gas. That will cause the vehicle to move/lurch. If you keep your foot on the brake while doing this you'll notice the front bows down and the transmission starts fighting against the brakes.