uphill speeds

[Bandwidth]

this is a question for those of you that travel up "the cut" in north vancouver.
I am curious what type if speeds and what gear you find yourself in while climbing this fairly daunting hill.

I find myself dropping to approx 60 km/hr (going off gps as i find my speedo to be over speed by a few clicks) at the top and usually in 3rd gear although it seems that i have now dropped into 2nd gear as i summit rpms are2700-3300 depending on the run up i get .

do you have similar results? any suggestions? besides the obvious dont drive the cut. i use this hill as a gauge for more demanding roads like the coquihalla and hopeslide area.

thanks for any input

D

[FalcoColumbarius]

80 Kliks: 3rd gear, bottom to top of the Cut.
Unless I get stuck behind someone who likes to start the Cut at 60, then accelerate to 100 because they have a hummer.

I used to make a run at the bottom of the cut and would be doing 80 by the directional signs. Then I found that the engine ran cooler if I shifted to 3rd at the bottom and held it to the top. Ideally one wants to be in the inside lane until past the initial hump at the base of the hill, because it's the smoother route, then pull over to the middle or outside lane once past it. I find if I stay in the middle or outside lane and mount the hump it cuts down my momentum considerably.

Falco.

[jessef]

try and keep the rev's as consistent between 3-3,500 going up the cut.

healthy, steady climb between 60-70 in 3rd close to 3k rpm is the golden number if you're behind people.

If you're doing climbs on a regular basis, a pyrometer is an absolute necessity so you don't push your motor to the point of blowing up. The stock temp gauge does not give ample warning before the head gasket goes.

[Luna-Sea]

Hey,
It's a good workout for the 2.5 4D56 for sure.
It has been said but bears repeating that having
a well maintained cooling is crucial for nice big climbs.
A pyro guage and boost guage will give you some data
to ponder. (and watch for overtemp EGTs)

With my 5 speed manuals I go between 3000-3600 rpm,
keeps my about 80kmph. Very easy to lose momentum
if someone decides to douche out in front of me.

A dirty air filter or fuel filter will show their ugly side
a cheat you of some power if they are needing replacement/nearing
end of their service life.

If everything is in order with your Gelica is good I believe a good
run like that performs the good old "italian tune-up" on our little Japanese diesels.
There is a joke there somewhere I think....

Right On!

[konadog]

If you're doing climbs on a regular basis, a pyrometer is an absolute necessity so you don't push your motor to the point of blowing up. The stock temp gauge does not give ample warning before the head gasket goes.

"absolute necessity"? How about just slowing down? I don't do "the cut" regularly, but I do go up hills (slowly) and have only a stock bus and don't plan on changing that. I do appreciate that more info is good, but question the "necessity" of a pyrometer...

[jessef]

There are ample examples of well maintained (engine/cooling system) L300's blowing head gaskets because of long hill driving on this forum alone.

Take the UK/Oz forum and add the local service shops, and it's a large number.

Head gaskets are know to crack with no mods done to Delica's at all.

The bulk of it is due to not having enough exhaust outlet and being unaware that the engine is getting hotter and hotter while the stock temp gauge (just a simple dummy gauge) is not keeping up with the exhaust side of the block.

Pyro gauge is not necessary just like the stock temp gauge is not necessary. Same can be said for any gauge.

Gauges are there to indicate either a current problem or an escalating problem.

The pyrometer gives the driver the latter. An escalating problem that can be avoided is acted upon the warning.

On the 4D56 engine, it should be a factory install just like on the 4cylinder Mitsubishi Fuso/Canter's.

Going slower up a hill does not keep the engine cooler. The faster revs keep the air pushing through and not making the engine lug too much causing excessive heat.

Too bad Roger is not here any more. Albeit a feisty member, he did a really good exhaust side/intake side factual post a long while back.

[konadog]

Thanks for the quick response - I get that the revs need to be up - lower gear = slower with faster revs (just like my old 71 vw bus!). btw, who is Roger?

[thedjjack]

I go up at 60km/h in my 5 speed...

I could go up at 80km/h but it makes lots of exhaust heat still under 1100, but high so why?

My engine temperature gauge does not move (stays around bottom 1/4).

The other way to blow a head gasket is to do the cut or another hard climb on a cold motor. Wait until operating temperature is normal before pushing any motor...Especially cast iron block, aluminum head 22:1 diesels... different expansion rates.

cheers

[jessef]

btw, who is Roger?

Green1

He's a walking encyclopedia and has a smart head on his shoulders. Very opinionated though.

[Bandwidth]

you guys are getting 80 kms?! if im lucky my speedo says 70-73 but gps is telling me 60-62 tops, I ve just had a tonne of work done , head tranny, you name it but still feels wrong. I'm going in for more tranny work shortly hopefully that sorts it out.

thanks D

[Fishtank]

...I ve just had a tonne of work done , head tranny, you name it but still feels wrong. I'm going in for more tranny work shortly hopefully that sorts it out.

thanks D

Where did you get a "tonne of work" done? Maybe list what you've had done and we can help you isolate where you can start before going in and a "tonne of cash" is gone from your wallet.

[Bandwidth]

...I ve just had a tonne of work done , head tranny, you name it but still feels wrong. I'm going in for more tranny work shortly hopefully that sorts it out.

thanks D

Where did you get a "tonne of work" done? Maybe list what you've had done and we can help you isolate where you can start before going in and a "tonne of cash" is gone from your wallet.

I have a head and all the works that go with it, water pump timing belt , tensioners, etc done by cca. also refurb tranny, alternator rotors brakes , air and fuel filters, some coolant system work( rear heater core ) also lots of peripheral items like block heater , horn repair , thermostat, almost all work done by cca although ive also had some tweaking here and there alignment and the like from butch at cvi.

all told i think im almost 8000 in last year not including the new tires or oil changes

i dont even like looking at the total but im invested in this beast now good or bad i do have a trip to the island to visit the tranny shop that refurbed mine to get a valve body replaced so hopefully that will be the end of my woes.

D

[yojimbo]

Wow, you guys really spend a lot on these vehicles eh? My last major service was about £300 which I thought was a lot

[Bandwidth]

after about 10 trips to various mechanics and transmission shops i have finally been able to solve my terrible uphill speed!
Glen and the boys at ccautos put a refurb tranny in in the spring, as well as a head and numerous other bits and immediately i noticed a loss of power. Glen and Graham were great in trying top make good on the job as it seemed fine and the only evidence of underperformance was my testimony.

Instead of calling me crazy and sending me on my way Glen insisted that the shop that did the refurb sort out my valve body... and low and behold power!! I've seen an increase of 15-20% more power and can cruise up the cut in north van @70 -73km whereas i was around 60 or less earlier.

so perhaps other people experiencing downshifts when not normal and a loss of power can look into a valve body replacement

cheers
D

[bassnailer]

Don't mean to hijack, but...I'll be driving up the Coque. to Merritt in a week. I'm changing my oil to a lighter oil before the trip, but how should I approach such a long climb like that? Get a pyrometer? Should I really hold 3000+ for the entire climb? Seems counter-intuitive. should I get a pyrometer? I don't think I have time to do that before the trip.