WVO lines and gaskets

[delicat]

Hi all,

I'll be (well,Mardy's shop... I'm the wallet) doing a full "preventive" maintenance on my newly acquired Delica including belts, fluids... all! But I'm planing to convert it to WVO in a near future and in the mean time l might also try Bio. With that in mind, would now be the best time to replace my fuel supply lines and gaskets with the synthetic type?

For the first part sounds like B20 shouldn't cause any problems but anything above and it's another story, isn't it?. Add WVO and now it's a must for those special lines.

So if now IS the time, what exactly do I need? Size, length for lines (Fluorel vs Nitrile) I think they go by SAE 30R7? Is there specific gaskets to do the full system as it stands now (prior to conversion).

I can't thank enough all the WVO pioneers out there (you know who you are...at least 8-9 of you!) on all the great information. Just finished reading the 4 pages of posts on WVO and great info. It would be nice to have a friendly version for the do it yourself on parts, procedures... as it gets a little confusing just reading the posts since it's often from trial and errors. You 1st read something on install, you keep it in mind just to discover 2 pages later that it wasn't the best way to go about it and someone else found a better alternative... After 4 pages you're not so sure as to what's the best way to go about it. Maybe food for another post?

Anyway, thanks in advance!

[Adam]

If you are looking for a definitive over view of WVO kit installs this was the best $30 I spent: http://www.plantdrive.com/shop/product. ... 261&page=1

[delicat]

Hi Adam,

Thanks for the tip! Sounds like you recognize yourself as being one of the 8 or 9 pioneers! I guess it doesn't matter if they call it SVO book, should still work the same as WVO? Anyway, I already placed in my order.

My question is still out though; is now the time to replace some of the lines and ideas on sizes, lengths and do certain gaskets needs the upgrade as well?

Thansk,

[Adam]

My question is still out though; is now the time to replace some of the lines and ideas on sizes, lengths and do certain gaskets needs the upgrade as well?

I didn't upgrade or replace any of my lines/gaskets for the WVO install. I added the recommended fuel lines to carry the WVO/coolant, but it really isn't that fancy. I don't think WVO is tougher on rubber lines/gaskets than diesel. I know a biodiesel is a strong solvent and will degrade natural rubber parts over time, but there are some mixed thoughts out there on the interwebs as to if you need to change out all your seals and rubber lines:

Rubber parts in the fuel system may corrode in time with biodiesel, especially 100% biodiesel (B100). Newer cars (since the mid-1990s) use resistant parts, and biodiesel is used in many older engines without any problems. If necessary, check with your vehicle's manufacturer. Viton parts are best. In fact these problems are rare -- just do it, go ahead and use biodiesel, and wait and see. If you do have problems it won't be soon and it won't be sudden, you'll have warning and it's easily fixed.

vs.

Well changing your fuel lines is a good idea what ever fuel you run, with ULSD/LSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) here combined with fact that you have 15 year old fuel lines... (I think something like 95 or newer is better/fine??)

It's not the lower sulfur that affects your fuel lines, it's the fact they change the blend of hydrocarbons in dino-diesel to create similar properties. Too boot LSD is; less stable, possibly more bacterial growth, can contain more water and can cause filters to plug up quicker. Also too boot; biodiesel is certain to have trace amounts of meth (methonal) in it which is a powerful solvent the nice old hose and gasket materials.

WVO does softens the lines too.... but I just can't think of how to explain it with another drug reference; LSD, meth, and mmmmm the ecstasy of running on WVO. I'll stop now.

[sean]

Hey Delicat,

Don't know if you read this post but I copied it here for you. A little technical but may answer your question about about suitable hose.

So if now IS the time, what exactly do I need? Size, length for lines (Fluorel vs Nitrile) I think they go by SAE 30R7? Is there specific gaskets to do the full system as it stands now (prior to conversion).

The specs on the hose that is SAE 30R7 is that it is made from a nitrile tubing and the SAE 30R9 is made from a Flouroelastomer. The nitrile is fine but the flourel is rated as "suitable" for vegetable oils see http://www.watson-marlow.com/pdfs-globa ... -us-01.pdf. The nitrile as described by most manufacturers is as follow:

At temperatures up to 100C, or with special compounding up to 120C, nitrile rubber provides an economic material having a high resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbon oils and fuels. Different grades are available - the higher the acrylonitrile (ACN) content, the higher the oil resistance but the poorer is the low temperature flexibility. It has high resilience and high wear resistance but only moderate strength. It has limited weathering resistance, and poor aromatic oil resistance. It can generally be used down to about -30C, but special grades can operate at lower temperatures.

Flourel on the other hand is described as follows:

This is a family of rubbers designed for very high temperature operation. They can operate continuously somewhat in excess of 200C depending on the grade, and intermittently to temperatures as high as 300C. They have outstanding resistance to chemical attack by oxidation, by acids and by fuels. They have good oil resistance. However, at the high operating temperatures they are weak, so that any design must provide adequate support against applied forces. They have limited resistance to steam, hot water, methanol, and other highly polar fluids. They are attacked by amines, strong alkalis and many Freons. There are standard and special grades - the latter can be designed to have special properties such as improved low-temperature resistance.

Hope this helps
Sean

[delicat]

Thanks Sean,

I also spoke with EricN yesterday at the Burnaby meet, very helpful. I'll update as I go along. (or ask a bunch more questions.)

I asked about local interest for group purchase but didn't get any response so we'll see if wanna be WVO wake up and can all get together.

Cheers.

[Jordan]

Is anyone running B100? Is it possible to get IP seals that don't degrade?

[after oil]

jordan, you might try starting a new thread for your answer

[TardisDeli]

Hi Jordan, I dont know anyone running 100 percent biodiesel locally in Vancouver (and I know almost all the delicas), it costs more than diesel. Several run WVO (Waste Veg oil, very filtered), some have dual system diesel or heated wvo, I just add wvo in warmer weather to my diesel. But the guys around Nanaimo and Cowichan on the island were looking into biod a couple years ago, I think Kuan would be a good resource, or he will know who is a trusted opinion.

More worrying, I never use biodiesel as there does not seem to be a quality guarantee, that is why the warning to know your source. A couple years ago, there were huge problems with the Biodiesel, it came from a co-op group and therefore not from a major factory with all the computer testing etc, result was somebody got the formula quantities wrong and it turned into solid soap inside the engine -- oops time to buy a whole new engine. You can look up the old post here on the website.

I dont know how biod compensates for cold weather, as oil solidifies when cold. Buy a litre of it first, put into a glass jar with lid, let settle for a couple days where you park your vehicle, are there any separation layers, if so dont use it. Then put it into fridge overnight, if it partly clouds or congeals, don't use it.

Agree with start a new post for the biodiesel topic, as it is totally diff from WVO, biod adds acetone (nail polish remover etc) for the oomph to replace the cetane of diesel (cetane is the oomph for diesel, just as octane is the oomph for gasoline). So now biodiesel isnt really as GREEN as the advertisers imply, acetone is hazardous. I would rather use a highly computer processed diesel that I know wont' kill my engine.

Rudolf Diesel invented his engine to run on peanut oil.

Christine.