Lets see your camping trailers!

[pajerry]

Well, as the family grows its time to buy a small reliable commuter for the wife, and I already drive a work van. We're getting rid of one Pajero but Im keeping the 2dr 2.8L. Its fun to drive, has been super reliable, has alot of new front end parts and IP seals replaced etc. I can finally modify it beyond the wifes demand, but I want to keep us all out in the bush. I know the delica guys don't have the problem, but I can't go camping with the family in the SWB. I initially wanted to get a decent tent trailer. The thing is we're not going to cook inside and don't mind tenting not to mention the cost, size and weight. Also, one weekend off road would probably destroy it! We're not the provincial campground WIFI types. My idea was to have a utility trailer for home/yard use that is well built enough for pretty serious off road and reliability at a price point well below a crappy store bought utility trailer. The plus will be we could sleep in it if needed and my daughter will definitely have fun doing so in the future. Trust me, my father took us camping in his FJ40 Cruiser for years. It really sucked being cramped up there with limited gear!

So, I've started building a camping trailer from scratch. I wanted to see if anyone else has done this, so post up you're pics etc. Im curious to see what other people have come up with and always looking for more ideas before I wrap up the fab stage and start paint.

I currently have a thread on expedition portal, but it isn't getting much feedback. Almost 3000 views and not many comments, plus I'd like to help keep this community alive. Sorry I'll have to post the same pics here, later.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/t ... iler-build

So far, Im in under 1500 bucks including a custom 3500lbs axle and 2000lbs springs to match a pajero/delica wheel base, and a tradesman canopy. Add a bit more for solar and eventually a deep cycle battery for conveniences I can't even imagine having in the bush. The whole thing is built to fit around the canopy, as it has nice windows, doors, latches and storage. Im mostly happy with my fab skills so far, measuring errors aside (damn ford tapered box) but the body work will be the real challenge as I didn't go the typical utility trailer route and I don't have any metal fab experience. At this point Im just trying to figure out the best way to get some metal bent to fit and work nice, and what paint to use. I estimate the total cost will be around 2K.

Tell me what you think! And Falco, do you have any steel painting secrets to share?

[Growlerbearnz]

It looks good so far! I like the idea of using the truck box and canopy (even if it is tapered )

One thing that drew my attention is the drawbar:

Drawbar.JPG (269.5 KiB) Viewed 3400 times

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the drawbar is in two pieces (marked orange and green). I'd be concerned about vertical motion fatiguing the front edge of your box frame at the blue welds. It looks like your steel is thick enough to get away with it for road use, but off-road antics can be hard on a drawbar. I'd consider adding a strengthening plate (red) to tie the orange and green sections together, distributing the vertical loads further into the frame.

It's a bit late now, but for amusement and trailer building ideas take a look at http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/. DIY trailer building is NZ's national sport. After rugby. And cricket. And anything else that involves a ball, running, or physical exertion. But then DIY trailer building for sure.

[pajerry]

It looks good so far! I like the idea of using the truck box and canopy (even if it is tapered )

One thing that drew my attention is the drawbar:

Drawbar.JPG

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the drawbar is in two pieces (marked orange and green). I'd be concerned about vertical motion fatiguing the front edge of your box frame at the blue welds. It looks like your steel is thick enough to get away with it for road use, but off-road antics can be hard on a drawbar. I'd consider adding a strengthening plate (red) to tie the orange and green sections together, distributing the vertical loads further into the frame.

It's a bit late now, but for amusement and trailer building ideas take a look at http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/. DIY trailer building is NZ's national sport. After rugby. And cricket. And anything else that involves a ball, running, or physical exertion. But then DIY trailer building for sure.

Yeah it is. I just figured with the extra 45s it would be plenty of welded surfaces spreading the forces. My structural enginneer gf agrees but always open to suggestions.

To be honest that part was my worst work and I was thinking of redoing it anyways. I also had 2x2x1/4" for the draw bar but decided the 1/8" tube was probably fine. I think a good compromise would be to box that section in with a triangle of 1/4" plate, or thinner. Also help act as a step. Not really looking to add a cargo box or anything as Id have to lengthen the tongue quite a bit.

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[pajerry]

Oh, and it wont be a truck box, ill be using aluminum (although my complicated design might be better off with steel)

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[pajerry]

Oh god not more trailer nasty... the wife says its a problem.

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[Growlerbearnz]

It all looks plenty strong enough for static loads, just be careful not to underestimate dynamic loads, particularly the vertical cyclic load on a drawbar- a trailer in motion is constantly trying to tip forwards and backwards, trying to lift and lower your trailer hitch through the drawbar, flexing it constantly. Those blue welds are perfectly aligned to act as hinges if the steel around them fatigues.

Now I think about it, a steel plate might be overkill- a second length of square tube welded to the underside of the drawbar so it ties the green and orange sections together would do the trick. Just don't weld across the box section and create another stress raiser, weld it along... hang on. I draw picture. (Diagonal braces omitted for clarity. Also I forgot to draw them in).

Drawbar2.JPG (57.7 KiB) Viewed 3375 times

Welding in the "here" positions will tie the tubes together without creating stress raisers in the vertical direction. Welding across the beam (the "not here" positions) will just create another stress point and potential future hinge.

I like the idea or plating those diagonal gussets to make a step- I don't think you need the extra strength, but steps are always handy. Maybe alloy treadplate riveted to the steelwork would do?