Running a wire for a backup cam

Mitsubishi Delica L400 production commenced in 1994 -- After much anticipation, the L400 arrived on Canadian Soil in 2009!
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NutherMike
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Running a wire for a backup cam

Post by NutherMike »

How hard is it run a wire to a backup cam? Actually what i really mean is: How hard is it run a wire to a backup cam on the tailgate AND put various trim pieces back in place and not break clips and wind up with rattles and squeaks, etc. 😀

If anyone can share tips, would be appreciated. If it is a real PITA then recommendations for good shops in Vancouver appreciated.
jbourne
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Re: Running a wire for a backup cam

Post by jbourne »

So I just did this yesterday. "Hard" is obviously a relative definition :-D I was fixing the famous two spots of rust on the front of the car, so I took the entire headliner off - front anf back. I would say that's NOT worth going THAT far for a rearview cam (although obviously made the job of connecting it, and the rear dashcam recorder, extremely simple, but that's like saying that pushing a button to launch the rocket was an extremely easy job, putting together the rocket notwithstanding :-D ).

You have a few challenges.

1. While the rear hatch is pretty easy to disassemble, getting to the rubber grommet is not that hard, the OTHER side (the one that goes into the body) is the problem: since it routes underneath the headliner, you would basically need to lower it in order to reach under it. That means undoing the plastic panels that hold it up + removing curtain rails if you have them (as they screw into the body).
2. The headliner is held on with all the side plastic panelling, air vents, and lights. That's a LOT of stuff to take down just for a wire. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to put back together and minimal clips get broken, but it's kind of a hassle.

What I think I would do now, if I had to do this again:

1. I would try to see if I can just drop the corner of the headliner closest to the rubber grommet from the trunk. This _should_ mean undoing the seatbelt on the D pillar, undoing its clip, removing the top curtain rail (if installed), undoing the hatch light on the ceiling (it holds the headliner), and undoing the 3 clips in the rear, which will probably break because I have no idea how to remove those kinds of clips. That _might_ get it down enough to reach the rubber channel.
2. Then, I'd undo the A-pillar trim on the relevant side. I think I'd recommend doing the right (driver) side, because once you get to the dashboard, it's easier to remove the speedometer and route the wire behind, rather than finangling behind the airbag (although I admit I haven't looked - I just didn't want to be near an airbag).
3. I'd then try to see (actually maybe this should be step 1) if I can get my hands on a REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY long metal or otherwise solid stick, that I could push through the entire roof. The headliner does not contact the roof - there are crossmembers there - so in principle, once you gain access, you SHOULD be able to put a really long stick through with enough swearing and patience.

If none of this is your cup of tea, an alternative that might work, I think, would be to route the wire via the same grommet, but exit just before it goes into the body. Then, you would route it along the weather seal of the hatch down, and then either under or over the weather seal into the interior; run it under the carpet along the centre of the car. Less ideal because you have to be more careful that you don't pinch the wire, but saves the whole headliner PITA.

You obviously also have the wireless camera option. It's certainly the least hassle (only have to open the hatch paneling) but I've had some issues with mine - switching on at the right times, or more specifically, NOT, and signal would sometimes drop out), but it might be a good thing to try before you go all Rambo on the car.

Feel free to ask more, fresh in my mind, can help.
alaskaskier
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Re: Running a wire for a backup cam

Post by alaskaskier »

I just ran one to mount on the back of my bike rack (so I can see when I’m about to smash the valuable things into surroundings). Because of this I did not need to get the video wire into the tailgate, but rather ran it down below the tools and out the bumper. This then allowed wiring to the front to be run behind the lower trim to the front (with stereo wires, etc). That driver side set of panels can be a bit of a b**** to get off but as I was doing some insulation/soundproofing back there anyways figured I’d take advantage.

The bit of wiring that was a real pain was getting the wiring connected to the reverse lights to power the camera appropriately which I had to run up the C- pillar then drop the aft portion of headliner as noted above.

As for wiring up front I’d agree that driver side is easier.
jbourne
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:01 am
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Vehicle: Unicorn L400 with no miles
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Re: Running a wire for a backup cam

Post by jbourne »

alaskaskier wrote: Thu Jan 13, 2022 1:50 pm I just ran one to mount on the back of my bike rack (so I can see when I’m about to smash the valuable things into surroundings). Because of this I did not need to get the video wire into the tailgate, but rather ran it down below the tools and out the bumper. This then allowed wiring to the front to be run behind the lower trim to the front (with stereo wires, etc). That driver side set of panels can be a bit of a b**** to get off but as I was doing some insulation/soundproofing back there anyways figured I’d take advantage.

The bit of wiring that was a real pain was getting the wiring connected to the reverse lights to power the camera appropriately which I had to run up the C- pillar then drop the aft portion of headliner as noted above.

As for wiring up front I’d agree that driver side is easier.
🤔🤔🤔🤔

So wait, you decided to avoid running the video wire into the tailgate to then go and run the backup lights wire to the tailgate? Did I read that right? :D
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