Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Are they both 6 volt?? Got the no clicky clicky happening but a -2 volt jumper to the bus bar fires her up.
Thinking to just leave them out and run a momentary 12 volt button.
Took one apart and it smells fried and seems to be burnt...
Best to replace as original is is the button a simpler and more reliable fix???
Thanks in advance! Tim in PoMo

The relays are both 12V. The "6V" relay takes 12V and feeds it into the dropping resistor pack (and from there to the glow plugs), the "12V" relay feeds 12v directly to the glow plugs.

Even with a manual pushbutton, you still need a relay in there. When most people install a manual pushbutton they connect it to the relay, so the relay's doing the heavy switching: the glow plugs draw about 30 amps, and a pushbutton switch that can handle that current isn't cheap (plus all the heavy wiring etc).

So. New relay time. If genuine parts are too expensive, look for an aftermarket relay intended for winching, they're usually high current rated. You want minimum 30A, preferably 50A or more.

Alternatively, Here's a thread where Morganiser rebuilt his relays: viewtopic.php?f=94&t=15336

I know a manual switch sounds easier, but the engine runs *so* much better when the ECU's working. I advise replacing the relays first and seeing if that solves the problem. You'll still have the option of adding a manual switch later if you want.

(Cross-posted from PM so others can find the answer

I'm thinkin 2 of these may do the job?
12 volt 50 amp

Perfect.

got em!!
Van has been working quite well with the temporary button although I did find a broken off wire on the IP that I reconnected,
hope to put in the new relays this weekend...
good times!!

I had the same problem last winter. The relays were good. It turned out my ECU went bad. Yeah! I suppose you can do the bus bar hot-wire trick permanently. I did, but used it as a temp solution.
Via Delica.ca I read about Dan at http://www.w1ngselectronics.com/
He can fix the relay most times. Common problem is the diodes leak and damage the board. For a lot less than a new ECU I had him fix mine. Runs like normal now.