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Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:47 am
by Mr.SA
So I went to get my emissions tested, (in the US) after failing a couple months ago, replaced the air filter, ran a lot of additive through it, and tested again, I'm at 76 on the opacity test, vs 80 for the last one (Tiny improvement!) and 30 is the limit. So not even close.
Strange thing is I passed a year ago, that's a big difference in 1 year. I did replace my exhaust with a straight pipe out the side, and larger diameter, but talking to the guys that ran the test (diesel shop) they didn't think that'd make a difference. I could bolt up my old exhaust and try again, if I still have it..
Any other ideas? Or anyone else see their emissions take a hit after a more free flowing exhaust.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:47 am
by helibrian
Make sure you blow the black smoke out before they do. If they blow it out it's bound to fail. What I use to do is take it on a highway and step on it to blow the black smoke out. Don't rev it pass 3000 as that's not good for the engine but I guess a little past is ok for a short amount of time. Also make sure the engine is up to temperature.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 4:33 pm
by Growlerbearnz
The larger exhaust shouldn't make a difference- if anything it should smoke less.
I recall you had very low compression readings- around 220psi. Low compression will make more smoke, as will worn out injectors.
Running the engine through the rev range occasionally to clean out the soot is a great idea, but don't be scared to use the entire rev range. The engine is fine at any revs until the injection pump governor kicks in, which happens at 4500rpm or so. Manual L300s in Europe run at 80mph (3600rpm) for hours on end, and it's useful to disable overdrive when driving up a hill- which takes me well above 3000.
Take it to a highway onramp, floor the gas pedal, and keep it there until you hit 60mph (is yours a manual? Then change gears at about 4000rpm, when the engine starts to feel a bit "breathless"). Look in your mirror for the smokescreen as all the soot gets blasted off the valves and exhaust turbine. Drive normally for 10 minutes or so and then repeat. Eventually it should accelerate without much smoke at all.
If you still have smoke while accelerating hard, consider winding the boost compensator spring seat up on the injection pump. Remove the diaphragm cover, mark the diaphragm so you can replace it in the same orientation, and then wind the starwheel up (anticlockwise as viewed from above) a couple of turns. (mark the starwheel too, and write down how far you turned it so you can put it back later)
- hDWIo.jpg (672.46 KiB) Viewed 9053 times
That will reduce the amount of fuel injected when the turbo is on boost. It'll also make the engine slower, so don't go drag racing until you get the hang of your new engine.
Also make sure you do what we do in California- take the van for a long, hot run before emissions testing, and get them to test it straight away. A hot engine should help compensate for the low compression.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:02 pm
by Mr.SA
Growlerbearnz wrote:The larger exhaust shouldn't make a difference- if anything it should smoke less.
I recall you had very low compression readings- around 220psi. Low compression will make more smoke, as will worn out injectors.
Running the engine through the rev range occasionally to clean out the soot is a great idea, but don't be scared to use the entire rev range. The engine is fine at any revs until the injection pump governor kicks in, which happens at 4500rpm or so. Manual L300s in Europe run at 80mph (3600rpm) for hours on end, and it's useful to disable overdrive when driving up a hill- which takes me well above 3000.
Take it to a highway onramp, floor the gas pedal, and keep it there until you hit 60mph (is yours a manual? Then change gears at about 4000rpm, when the engine starts to feel a bit "breathless"). Look in your mirror for the smokescreen as all the soot gets blasted off the valves and exhaust turbine. Drive normally for 10 minutes or so and then repeat. Eventually it should accelerate without much smoke at all.
If you still have smoke while accelerating hard, consider winding the boost compensator spring seat up on the injection pump. Remove the diaphragm cover, mark the diaphragm so you can replace it in the same orientation, and then wind the starwheel up (anticlockwise as viewed from above) a couple of turns. (mark the starwheel too, and write down how far you turned it so you can put it back later)
hDWIo.jpg
That will reduce the amount of fuel injected when the turbo is on boost. It'll also make the engine slower, so don't go drag racing until you get the hang of your new engine.
Also make sure you do what we do in California- take the van for a long, hot run before emissions testing, and get them to test it straight away. A hot engine should help compensate for the low compression.
Some great tips, thanks!
I'm just a little lost now because its always blown black smoke, maybe a little more than when I passed emissions over a year ago, but go from below 30% to now 76 seems crazy. it doesnt seem that bad to me.
One thing to consider is that i did get my emissions done a couple days after about 1000 miles of 65-80 mph, highway, high in the revs driving back from canada, maybe that helped clear things out.
I'm planning on replacing the fuel filter, I talked to a mechanic who knows these engines well and he said they need to be replaced pretty frequently, and thats usually the cause of excessive black smoke. mines been on there for 50-60,000 km, which doesnt seem like alot compared to what i'm used to, but he was saying every 15-20000 km is when they should be done.
Might get the injectors checked out too if the fuel filter doesnt fix it.
so I think ill try that, follow the tips you recommended, and give it another shot. if that doesnt work then maybe i'll go to the timing belt, which I
SHOULDNT need for another 20k.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 1:54 pm
by Mr.SA
Another little thing i did to try and help, theres a little bolt under the gas pedal for the pedal stop, extend that as far as it will go. that right there might have made up for the 4% improvement since my last attempt.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 6:34 pm
by helibrian
Fuel filter? Don't think that will help you. Maybe try running low sulfur diesel if your not already.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:49 pm
by Growlerbearnz
A clogged fuel filter can reduce the injection pump's internal pressure, which retards the timing. I wouldn't say it's the *usual* cause of black smoke, but if there's bacteria in the diesel the filter can clog up surprisingly quickly.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:40 pm
by helibrian
I read on the bc4x4 forum that changing the air filter caused the reading to go from 50 to 16 in the opacity test.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 12:26 pm
by Lapprentis
And why not go there running on any veggetable oil
Would there be any of the "unwanted Stuff" left at the end of the exhaust ?
Just a Vegan tought
Lapprentis
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 12:01 pm
by ACKO15
I would say that next time you go for testing, get 'er hot. Give it a nice hard run, to blast away carbon and also to bring you up to a consistent temperature throughout the whole vehicle before the test. Also, out of curiosity, where does your temp gauge sit?
I dealt with a stuck open, 25 year old OEM thermostat in my van, after I purchased it last year. My smoke situation definitely improved, and we don't need to wear parkas inside anymore. Just a thought.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:21 pm
by Mr.SA
ACKO15 wrote:I would say that next time you go for testing, get 'er hot. Give it a nice hard run, to blast away carbon and also to bring you up to a consistent temperature throughout the whole vehicle before the test. Also, out of curiosity, where does your temp gauge sit?
I dealt with a stuck open, 25 year old OEM thermostat in my van, after I purchased it last year. My smoke situation definitely improved, and we don't need to wear parkas inside anymore. Just a thought.
It sits pretty low, just around or above the 2nd mark from the bottom. though when im driving in the mountains/highways, it'll get up half way pretty easy, some times get around 2/3 up, never gotten at or above the top white line.
I do have a problem in the winter with getting heat out the vents, i basically have to drive it hard to get the temp up to get even reasonably hot air. for example if its near or below freezing its hard to keep my windows defrosted unless i drive hard. I wasnt sure if thats a delica thing or not?
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:01 am
by ACKO15
In my first experience with cold weather, last year, we had to scrape the inside of the windows. As soon as I put in a new thermostat (the old one was degraded and jammed open about 3/32"), we had ample heat to defrost, we would be warmed up to just below half in 10 minutes, and even in 30C temperatures this summer we didn't get close to overheating, maybe 3/4 on the temp gauge on a long hill. They do run cool, but you should produce enough heat to clear the windshield. We reached -20C with no issues, except for those clunky, rattly, smoky starts.
That being said, however, yours sounds like a normal span of temperatures.
Failed emissions, by a lot
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 2:25 pm
by Growlerbearnz
Mr.SA wrote:
It sits pretty low, just around or above the 2nd mark from the bottom. though when im driving in the mountains/highways, it'll get up half way pretty easy, some times get around 2/3 up, never gotten at or above the top white line.
I do have a problem in the winter with getting heat out the vents, ... I wasnt sure if thats a delica thing or not?
Your temperature gauge is behaving normally, but your heater isn't. How quickly does your gauge move? It should get up to temperature after about 5 minutes of driving, if it takes forever to stabilise then it might be a stuck open thermostat.
I'd replace the thermostat, and flush the heater out (Set heat control to full hot, detach heater hoses from the engine block, flush with a garden hose until the water comes out clean- in both directions. While it's flushing, occasionally move the heat control to cold and back to hot to clear the valve out).