Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

So I think I am going to be installing a pyrometer here in the next few weeks (give or take a month). Ive been looking around for posts about an L300 install but I can't find a detailed procedure. Looking for tips and such and how people ran the lines and where they drilled the manifold. Im sure I could figure this all out on my own, but if there is a good write up or just some good advice, I love to hear/see it!! Thanks!

NORDO

I'm not the most tech savvy on here. I posted a similar thread about a month ago asking the same thing and got some excellent info (previous threads) and advice from Tojo. I just responded to it so it would pop back up in the Active Topics part of the site. Have a look at what's there. It'll totally help you out.

In the meantime, I should probably figure out how to repost info on here. Perhaps it's just copy and paste...?....

Anyway, good luck. It seems like a must do modification....

When I removed the EGR valve I also removed the pipe that goes to the exhaust, made up a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold, and then just drilled and tapped the blanking plate to take the pyrometer probe.

Growlerbearnz wrote:When I removed the EGR valve I also removed the pipe that goes to the exhaust, made up a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold, and then just drilled and tapped the blanking plate to take the pyrometer probe.

What did you use for a gasket on the exhaust manifold end?

Falco.

I'm installing my Pyrometer too and I'm drilling the exhaust POST turbo.

It wasn't that bad to get the manifold out, and you discover a few incompetencies while you are down there.
This works for me though because I wanted to check out and rebuild my turbo, getting rid of the oil leak etc.

The big questions I always see on the forum are WHERE? (EGT plate, PRE, POST turbo) and .... PRE/POST turbo?

Well it seems to be agreed upon that post vs pre turbo has a variance in temps, possibly by 100*. So you have to know what numbers you are referencing.

Also I read that if you mount pre-turbo, you get a better idea of the heat thats HITTING the turbo but if your probe tip breaks off it would go through the turbo and mess that little baby up.

I kinda wanted pre-turbo but this one factor for me said nah, I can't afford a new one!

HOPE THIS HELPS!

I installed a pyro along with a boost gauge right before I headed to Colorado from South Carolina (and I'm glad I did!) It's amazing how quickly those temps can rise when you're not paying attention to your pedal pressure or incline.
The two gauges were VDO from summit racing. I liked the style and location I found here http://dinoevo.de/pyrometer-boost-gauge/ so I replicated it for the most part.
I didn't really feel like paying $80 something for the housing pods and was lucky enough to find that Dole pineapple juice cans are the perfect fit once the length is trimmed. Those, rattle canned black, attached with hose clamps to cold forged aluminum bars, which in turn were screwed into the steering column cover, IMHO provided a utilitarian look at a modest price of around $10.
I had already blanked my EGR so I just took the steel plate to a machinist and had him drill and tap it to place the pyro probe in. Also for you Falco, I used the old EGR gasket on the blanking plate and it seems to be working well.
Hope that helps and good luck with the install.

On a side/related note I'm curious what seasoned or informed drivers who have a probe in the EGR plate get for readings and temps they look to avoid?