Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I'm trying to remove the rotor but hit a snag. I'm following the instructions in this thread... http://www.delica.ca/forum/front-brake- ... -5277.html but when I try to remove the 2 bolts holding the calliper in place, they seem to be stuck. To confirm, it's the two 17mm bolts that I should be taking out, not the 14mm bolt? Does anyone have tips on removing this?

I can't fit a ratchet on the bottom 2 bolts so I'm using a wrench. I've tried soaking in lubricant, heating with a small butane torch, hammering the wrench, lying down and pressing on the wrench with my feet, and jacking up the wrench. Nothing has even got it to budge. On the top two bolts, I've tried using a ratchet, I thought I had it and then found out I had twisted the male end on both the ratchet and the extender bit. With the exception of ruining tools, I haven't accomplished much. Has anyone had this happen before? I would hate to have to re-assemble everything and take it to a shop because of a couple stubborn bolts.

Are these bolts easy to replace? Can I just drill them out and get some new ones at Rona? I need to get this job done before Friday.

Or, does anyone know of a mobile mechanic who can simple come over and remove these bolts for me so I can get back to work?

If the answer is that I have to take it to the mechanics, can I drive it a few blocks without the hubs connected so they don't have to re-do the work I've already done?

I would say you want an impact socket to loosen it up.
This can be an air tool or simply an old school impact tool
that you whack with a hammer. (Almost always on sale ar canadian tire)
You can also try actually tightening the bolts a little
and then try loosening them again,this is the action an
impact does but way slower.
Brakes parts get wicked hot and cool down lots so its
Very common to seize. (Exhaust parts are are even worse)
I love anti sieze paste because it works.(use it for reassembly)
Good Luck, hang in there.

Right On

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, there isn't even enough room to get a socket in there, let alone an impact tool. I'm planning to call around the garages in Tsawwassen and see if one of them is willing to send someone down just to remove the bolts. Once they're taken care of, the rest will be smooth sailing (at least it should be). If I get lucky, re-assembly will occur tomorrow evening. If not, I might have to spend some money I don't have.

I'm guessing this ant-seize paste is sold at any autoparts store?

to remove the caliper bracket you need to remove the top and bottom 17mm bolts.

an impact or 1/2" 17mm socket with a breaker bar will crack them loose always

you can easily get a socket in there. Just turn the wheel.

jessef wrote:to remove the caliper bracket you need to remove the top and bottom 17mm bolts.

an impact or 1/2" 17mm socket with a breaker bar will crack them loose always

you can easily get a socket in there. Just turn the wheel.

Duh! Sometimes I wonder if I should have "attention to detail" on my resume.

I'll try the breaker bar tonight since I won't be able to get my hands on an impact driver.

Heh. I got a t bar and socket on the bottom one with the wheel straight and undid it! You need to undo the wee screw by top bolt too, and push the pad in a bit to get over the ridge.

yojimbo wrote:Heh. I got a t bar and socket on the bottom one with the wheel straight and undid it! You need to undo the wee screw by top bolt too, and push the pad in a bit to get over the ridge.

How'd you manage that? The bottom bolt only has about 1/2" between the head and the control arm with it straight. I forgot to remove that screw, so I will need to do that still. I'm borrowing a 3/4 - 1/2 adapter so I can use my big breaker bar on it.

Well as its till in bits, I took a pic, this dead ahead, so I expect when I did it the steering was a bit off center, but even so:



The bolt is still loose as you can see so it would have been a bit more home when undoing it.

Tight fit! I hope it works out this evening!

Yeah you'll shift it, i would just use a 1/2" t bar and a persuader on the end if you need extra leverage, that bar in the pic is pretty thin but incredibly strong, I've used it with a 4 foot pole with a lot of force, undoing head bolts and its lived. As it happened I couldnt get it undone myself, but a left handed friend managed to get his stronger side on it more directly. The other side I should be ok myself on :D

yojimbo wrote:Yeah you'll shift it, i would just use a 1/2" t bar and a persuader on the end if you need extra leverage, that bar in the pic is pretty thin but incredibly strong, I've used it with a 4 foot pole with a lot of force, undoing head bolts and its lived. As it happened I couldnt get it undone myself, but a left handed friend managed to get his stronger side on it more directly. The other side I should be ok myself on :D

My 1/2" bar and the extender both bent when I torqued on it.

Was it going the right way

Thats actually why I use that thin one, I inherited from my dad, when I say inherited, I've been borrowing it for a very long time, it would be embarrassing to give it back now! It's bent a little sometimes, but always springs back.

yojimbo wrote:Was it going the right way

Thats actually why I use that thin one, I inherited from my dad, when I say inherited, I've been borrowing it for a very long time, it would be embarrassing to give it back now! It's bent a little sometimes, but always springs back.

Yup, it was going the right way, it's just really stuck on there. I'm guessing they got very hot while driving because when I jacked the van up, I didn't have enough strength even to turn the wheel because the calipers were so seized. I'm surprised it wasn't pulling to one side at all, the wheel were always hot after driving.

I was surprised how stuck the 'fixed' slider was, took a hammer and feeding rubber grease behind the boot to free it up.