Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Diesel runaway is bad.

Diesel runaway is pretty dramatic but it's it got nothing to do with P/I system; particularly a good quality P/I system properly installed.

Around $2200 all in quote from the Chilliwack place. Better be worth it to spend that cash.

Drumster wrote:Diesel runaway is pretty dramatic but it's it got nothing to do with P/I system; particularly a good quality P/I system properly installed.

True! But a failed regulator would have something to do with runaway!


I hope you are planning on a large propane tank under the body. A Coleman wont last too long at any level that will have a noticeable effect. If you are running 25% propane, it should cut your fuel bill. Do watch for pre-ignition though!

Mr. Flibble wrote:

Drumster wrote:Diesel runaway is pretty dramatic but it's it got nothing to do with P/I system; particularly a good quality P/I system properly installed.

True! But a failed regulator would have something to do with runaway!


I hope you are planning on a large propane tank under the body. A Coleman wont last too long at any level that will have a noticeable effect. If you are running 25% propane, it should cut your fuel bill. Do watch for pre-ignition though!

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I'll be going as large as I can get away with as long as it doesn't extend any lower than the vehicle's differential, and as long as it doesn't exceed my budget. Lots to choose from. Ease of mounting and minimal altering of van are priorities.
http://www.mantank.com/products/rvproducts.htm

Mr. Flibble wrote:Diesel runaway is bad.

Different type of runaway.

The poor LR shorty is running off its own engine oil thru a leaky turbo cooling gasket or similar. It'll run 'til it seizes from lack of oil.

If a propane runaway happened, you'd have to pop it in Neutral, park it and wait for the propane to run out; not good for the engine but probably not enough to seize it or cause major damage.

Still, not fun...

Actually, in the extremely unlikely event of any so-called "diesel runaway" phenomena on a P/I equipped vehicle, one would not have to wait for propane to run out; at least not with Eco-Shot. The Eco-Shot/Powershot2000 system has a shut-off solenoid which cuts off propane supply from tank when switch is flipped in cab or when ignition is turned off - regardless of what engine is doing. These are not hastily thrown together scraps from the BBQ Bargain Centre. I don't understand why anyone would try to create drama around this. There are well thought out safety precautions built into every aspect of these particular P/I systems, just as there are with propane conversions, proper DOT tanks and the propane industry in general. In the past I've owned both a dual CNG/gasoline powered station wagon and a straight LPG powered commercial van. Although I've never been directly involved with install before, this is not my "first rodeo".

It's not exactly in the same category as rocket science but propane has its own unique properties, is obviously very flammable and if not treated appropriately can result in tragedy - just like dealing with gasoline or any other flammable substance can result in tragedy if safety standards for that fuel are not followed. It's just common sense for anyone undertaking fuel mods of this type to first thoroughly check up on safety - which is what I have done with P/I - and to make sure that installation is done according to established safety procedures. This is why, although I've installed the basic components and switching myself, I'm having the tank and plumbing done by a certified propane tech who will also ensure the connections I've made are correct.

When properly handled and properly set up, propane is as safe as any other fuel. Additionally, not all P/I systems are created equal. For example, try to buy a Bully Dog system today. They're no longer available because, AFAIK, not all components met safety standards. For one thing, the remote fill system they used is actually illegal.

So all this "Diesel runaway" BS does not even belong in this thread. If anything it belongs in the "Cafe" section with all the other amusing or sensational items or in a thread of its own. Having it here erroneously creates the impression that it has some validity or pertains to propane injection in some way - which it does not.

tonydca wrote:

Mr. Flibble wrote:Diesel runaway is bad.

Different type of runaway.

The poor LR shorty is running off its own engine oil thru a leaky turbo cooling gasket or similar. It'll run 'til it seizes from lack of oil.

If a propane runaway happened, you'd have to pop it in Neutral, park it and wait for the propane to run out; not good for the engine but probably not enough to seize it or cause major damage.

Still, not fun...

tonydca wrote:

Mr. Flibble wrote:Diesel runaway is bad.

Different type of runaway.

The poor LR shorty is running off its own engine oil thru a leaky turbo cooling gasket or similar. It'll run 'til it seizes from lack of oil.

If a propane runaway happened, you'd have to pop it in Neutral, park it and wait for the propane to run out; not good for the engine but probably not enough to seize it or cause major damage.

Still, not fun..
No it will do this exactly, I had a buddy working up north at a natural gas line is ford ran away while idling there because of a natural gas leak 20 yards away. When they run away either from its own oil or uncontrolled fuel, the only way to stop it is shut off the air supply or the fuel supply.
Trust me I have seen it and know alot of guys that have had it happen to them just not thinking. The biggest culprit is oil in the intercooler after a tubro seal has let go and he did not wash out the intercooler.

Dustin

Getting back to the Propane Injection...
The project is going quite well. I've found a suitable space for the unit, after re-configuring it slightly, and have found homes for the two new switches without them looking out of place and without hacking big holes anywhere:

I moved the A/T mode switch to the right and re-located the wiper heater switch (which I don't really need) down to where a blank had been. Had to remove the right dash to re-route wires for the heater switch...







And adapted the remaining openings to accommodate the P/I switches. Still need a bit of fine tuning but this is where they'll live.

Here's how I've re-arranged the regulator set-up. Have also replaced some of the brass nipple sizes & angles...

Before...



After...





This is where I managed to find space for it under the hood atop the right wheel well, utilizing an existing threaded fastening point...

Propane enters K&N air box via brass fittings from Lordco, like so...








"Key on" power for unit was found in one of three Black w Blue stripe wires, as shown.

you can see where I've cut the bundle open. (I've since tapped in and re-taped the whole thing back up... 'nother pic to follow later.)





Propane Injection is all wired in now. Thanks to Jesse.

Next mission and final step for this project: The tank. Will keep you posted.

very cool, keep us informed!

These tanks happen to be on sale 'til Thursday...

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/lp-g ... zontal.htm

I ordered the 10"x 32" for $423 with free shipping to Blaine. Part # 66-4941. Also need a special auto stop valve for adapting the remote fill. Arie at Excel Installations has ordered this part in from Toronto for me and will install when he mounts the tank.

PPL is a Texas company but will drop ship the tank from a Washington warehouse so should only be a matter of days.

Why are you adding fuel in at the filter as opposed to directly through the manifold after the intercooler? Won't you get some lag before the air with propane makes it through the intercooler? It won't be very long, but it will probably be similar to turbo lag.

Mr. Flibble wrote:Why are you adding fuel in at the filter as opposed to directly through the manifold after the intercooler?....

Because that's what the instructions say to do and is how this system is designed to work. I guess theoretically there could be some added "lag" but apparently this is what works; the air moves very fast thru there. manufacturer recommends shoving delivery hose in to air-box and down to about 8" from turbo. With my shortened ducting it works out to about the same distance for my brass fitting mounted in box. Who knows, I may add a short piece of hose later but right now it's not necessary and is just something that could potentially come loose and get sucked into the turbo.