Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

There is no glowplug light on a Delica. The symbol close to the A/T temp is for water in the fuel filter. It may be time to check your filter or see if the sensor wire on the bottom of the filter is disconnected.

You shouldn't have to idle more than 30 seconds in Victoria before SLOWLY driving away. Idling excessively does little to warm up the vehicle. Driving it gently will warm everything up faster and more evenly than idling.

If your turbo squeals, you got trouble. The turbo is well lubricated with a constant flow of oil from the oil pump. It may whistle a bit, but not squeal at all.

BTW: with new glow plugs and synthetic oil my Delica started quite easily at -25C in rural Red Deer yesterday.

James

Hi, Usually this delica squeal even you change it Brand new, even its a new jap & Korea made belt , i notice it make sound squeal after 4000 of 5000 kms, no matter how tight you do it , not overtight, i dont know why,usually the the alternator or power steering belt that squeal,
you just need to tight it & then your be o.k..
now when it comes to when switch the AC on & the rev goes up to much, you just need to adjust the ac, automatic idle adjuster located near the injection pump. adjust it the proper setting you want, & then
your set to go, no problem.
just a matter of doing tweaking the adjustment on this.
hope this help
Cheers;
Mardy

I am curious, all of you who hold your foot to the floor when you crank the engine over, have you tried NOT touching the throttle at all when you crank? I have never bothered to touch the throttle at all, heck, I never even wait untill the second click, I just count 5 seconds, if it clicks, I crank, if it doesnt click, I still crank. It starts in less than a second, on the second or 3 compression cycle (less than 2 turns of the crankshaft), I let it idle untill the oil light goes out (1/2 second or so), then feed enough throttle to get to 1000rpm. I dont know what the coldest temp I have started at yet but it is probably at the ski hill and I would guess around -5 to -10 range. I have yet to have an issue with starting at all since I fixed my air leak a couple months back.

In mine, the glow plug symbol (what I'm assuming is the glow plug symbol, next to the "A/T Temp" indicator) lights up with all the other indicators when the key is turned to the ON position. What I am unfamiliar with is the fact the glow plug indicator doesn't extinguish after they've warmed up (like every other diesel vehicle I've ever driven).

not sure what symbol you're looking at, but the reason it doesn't turn off when the plugs are warm is because it doesn't have anything to do with the glow plugs... these vehicles don't have a glow plug indicator...

just listen for the clicks from behind you, that's your best bet.

EricN wrote:I am curious, all of you who hold your foot to the floor when you crank the engine over, have you tried NOT touching the throttle at all when you crank? I have never bothered to touch the throttle at all, heck, I never even wait untill the second click, I just count 5 seconds, if it clicks, I crank, if it doesnt click, I still crank. It starts in less than a second, on the second or 3 compression cycle (less than 2 turns of the crankshaft), I let it idle untill the oil light goes out (1/2 second or so), then feed enough throttle to get to 1000rpm. I dont know what the coldest temp I have started at yet but it is probably at the ski hill and I would guess around -5 to -10 range. I have yet to have an issue with starting at all since I fixed my air leak a couple months back.

Tried it this afternoon. Outside air temperature 2 degrees. Glow plugs (both clicks), crank, start, then immediately stall. The first time I started Gumdrop myself I immediately looked for a glow plug light, having driven diesel rental cars on trips to Europe. Shogo explained the clicks...

A propos the water separator: I always thought the symbol looked like an acorn. It's also bad news: diesels do not like getting water in their fuel systems. Some years ago I helped repair the engine in a Caterpillar D4 bulldozer that had gotten some water past its water separator. The drive shaft to the injector pump was 1/2" diameter, and had sheared off when the pump locked up.

I haven't had to drain the separator since taking delivery in September, but I expect to have to do so before winter is out.

...laura

In 55,000 km I haven't had any water in my fuel. Nothing came out at filter changes. If you get your fuel from a supplier that serves mainly the trucking industry, the fuel doesn't sit in the storage tanks long enough to get much water build up - avoid any station that doesn't move a lot of diesel - ie ones in residential areas where most people drive gassers.

Mine will start down without throttle from about 0 up, after that some throttle is required for a few seconds. Definitely need throttle when it has sat below zero for any length of time (ie overnight). I think it starts about the sames as my Mazda diesel and Toyota previously owned.

James

marsgal42 wrote:Tried it this afternoon. Outside air temperature 2 degrees. Glow plugs (both clicks), crank, start, then immediately stall.

Mine will stall after a few seconds if I don't give it a little throttle after it starts when it's moderately cold (below 5 or so) but any warmer and it'll keep running, although I usually give it a little fuel so it's not shaking and sputtering as much.

Re: A/C idle up adjustments. Mardydelica's right on checking and adjusting idle when the A/C button is pressed in to activate the compressor and idle up actuator on the injection pump. There is a linkage that pulls the lever up to increase idle for A/C. Proper adjustment of this is that when you turn on your A/C, the idle should just be maintained at about 750 to 800rpms. You shouldn't even be able to feel the idle go up. It should just be the same with or with out actuating the A/C. That proper adjustment saves fuel too...

Re: Cold start... usually, the injectors nozzle tips jell up too or sticks specially when stored for some time. Assuming the glo plugs all work well, starting at cold weather should fire up easily and just try and control the idle up with the throttle knob or the gas pedal. Gummy or sticking injectors can be cleaned ultrasonically.

Re: Water separator sensor on the dash... it would be wise specially in this cold weather to fill up at half a tank to prevent water condensation inside the tank. It's true... water is really bad for the injectors and injection pump.

hmmm ... lots of things I learned after I got my nice delica. ... from Mardy of course.

Cheers and Happy New Year to all!

Hi,

I'm dealing with a squeal since it got cold, but the circumstances are interesting so I thought I would ask.

My Van starts just fine, when I turn over after 2 clicks, even up to -12 (as cold as it has gotten here). If I try to take the RPMs higher than about 1000 just after startup I get a high-pitched squeal.

The strange thing is this. After about 30 seconds of idling I hear a THIRD click from the same place the glow plug click comes. As soon as this third click happens I can rev the engine with no squeal at all. The squeal stops immediately after the THIRD click.

There is some sort of relationship between the THIRD click and the squeal. I wondered if anyone here knows what it might be.

Thanks,
-- Joel

jskrepnek wrote:There is some sort of relationship between the THIRD click and the squeal. I wondered if anyone here knows what it might be.

Okay... so what is this 3rd click of which you type? I've never heard a 3rd click, but you can be sure that I'm going to be listening for it now. The Moon Machine 'squeals' some mornings, when it's cold and damp, and I think it has something to do with either a belt or the turbo.

Does anyone have a breakdown of what the glow plug relay assembly does, the sequence of clicks (2 or 3) and how does one know their glow plugs are no good if there's no glow plug indicator on the dash?

the glow plug relay will cycle on and off several times until the engine has warmed up, so a "third click" is quite possible.

As for knowing if they're working... does the vehicle start in cold weather?
beyond that, you can disconnect the bus-bar that links the plugs and test each one with an ohm meter to make sure they aren't burnt out.

Green1 wrote:the glow plug relay will cycle on and off several times until the engine has warmed up, so a "third click" is quite possible.

Can you think of an explanation that connects the third click and the squealing though?

-- Joel

the third click would be the plugs kicking back in, which would equate to a large drain on the electrical system, and therefore a heavier load on the alternator, which could cause the belt to slip (and therefore squeal) if the belt is worn, or not tight enough.

Green1 wrote:the third click would be the plugs kicking back in, which would equate to a large drain on the electrical system, and therefore a heavier load on the alternator, which could cause the belt to slip (and therefore squeal) if the belt is worn, or not tight enough.

Or maybe the opposite. The squeal stops on the third click - but your explanation makes a lot of sense.

In any case, I need to check my belts :).

Thanks,
-- Joel

jskrepnek wrote:

Green1 wrote:the third click would be the plugs kicking back in, which would equate to a large drain on the electrical system, and therefore a heavier load on the alternator, which could cause the belt to slip (and therefore squeal) if the belt is worn, or not tight enough.

Or maybe the opposite. The squeal stops on the third click - but your explanation makes a lot of sense.

In any case, I need to check my belts :).

Thanks,
-- Joel

OK, I listen again and it's NOT the third click it's the FOURTH. The third click happens as the motor turns over, making it hard to hear. So with the fourth click the glow plugs shut off, lightening the load and therefore allowing the alternator to turn properly. Make sense?

-- Joel