Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

FalcoColumbarius wrote:

Strada 92 wrote:Check your coolant temperature sensor,the one with two wire on it,just beside the number one glow plug.Maybe when you change glow plugs,you disconnect it,move the connector or something.

X2

That was the first thing I checked...no luck though. I understand that it would cause erratic clicking but would it make the clicking stop?

from what the electrician told me who repaired my board, he said that the condition of the capacitors and IC he replaced was on the brink of shorting out. Anything could have pushed them to failure including a fresh set of plugs or battery disconnect, etc... a tiny spike is what did them in.

jfarsang wrote:from what the electrician told me who repaired my board, he said that the condition of the capacitors and IC he replaced was on the brink of shorting out. Anything could have pushed them to failure including a fresh set of plugs or battery disconnect, etc... a tiny spike is what did them in.

That was the answer I was looking for regarding "unusual coincidence" It really clarifies what could have happened. I dropped it off this evening to have it tested / repaired and should hear back in the next couple days. Hopefully that's the problem. When I opened it up and looked at the board there is a darker spot near one of the resistors and there are pen marks and fresh soldering from what appears to be a previous repair job.

After reading Christine's post early in this thread about glow plugs not "clicking" off I've become paranoid about the operation of the glow plugs in our L400. As long as I've had it (about 4 months) it's started really well but when turning ignition on there is a click and glow plug light on dash comes on (cold start) but there is not a corresponding click later (4-5 seconds or whatever) indicating they have gone off. The dummy light on the dash goes out but no click.

on warm starts there is no click and no glow plug light.

Van starts well under all conditions and I would have had no cause for concern until reading this thread.

We're leaving this morning on a road trip to Seattle for a concert and then camping in Olympic Peninsula so I will pay extra attention to van's "clicking" habits on the trip but won't get a chance to read responses until we get back on thursday.

Is something wrong, should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Kevin.

Airgonzo wrote:After reading Christine's post early in this thread about glow plugs not "clicking" off I've become paranoid about the operation of the glow plugs in our L400. As long as I've had it (about 4 months) it's started really well but when turning ignition on there is a click and glow plug light on dash comes on (cold start) but there is not a corresponding click later (4-5 seconds or whatever) indicating they have gone off. The dummy light on the dash goes out but no click.

on warm starts there is no click and no glow plug light.

Van starts well under all conditions and I would have had no cause for concern until reading this thread.

We're leaving this morning on a road trip to Seattle for a concert and then camping in Olympic Peninsula so I will pay extra attention to van's "clicking" habits on the trip but won't get a chance to read responses until we get back on thursday.

Is something wrong, should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Kevin.

The L400 click is faint. It's the solenoid above the fuel filter on the right side of the engine bay.

The glow plug light comes on for a split second and goes off. It's not the most accurate indicator.

When you turn the key to the 'on' position, you'll hear a click. Depending on the outside temp, the 2nd click will be anywhere from 4-10 seconds later and that second click is quite faint. About 1/2 as audible as the first initial click.

After taking 2 days off work and driving a total of 600km trying to trouble shoot I still have no answers as to what the problem is. I have a fully refurbished ECU, brand new glow plugs both tested and working. My relays have also been tested and are working. It seems there must be a bad connection somewhere. The plan now is to install a manual switch and hope that solves it (in which case I will have an ECU for anyone in need!?) If not I suppose I'm SOL.

nxski wrote:After taking 2 days off work and driving a total of 600km trying to trouble shoot I still have no answers as to what the problem is. I have a fully refurbished ECU, brand new glow plugs both tested and working. My relays have also been tested and are working. It seems there must be a bad connection somewhere. The plan now is to install a manual switch and hope that solves it (in which case I will have an ECU for anyone in need!?) If not I suppose I'm SOL.

You don't know the optimum temperature to start engine if you have a manual system, and it will lead your 6.2 v glow plugs burn out very quickly ( 11V glow plugs last a ittle bit longer than current your 6.2V under manual system). So eventually you can encounter the same hard starting problem sooner or later.

Do not give up cheap fixing way other members suggested and do not throw away ECU as it plays more than glow plug control system.

Steven

The manual glow plug solution was suggested by CVI. If you can solve my problem without selling me new glow plugs or a new ECU then I'll try to bring the van in for you to look at it. I'm tired of speculation though. Also, what else does the ECU do?..Because I've been driving without it and without glow plugs for 2 days now.

On top of that, even if my glow plugs wear out more quickly, I can replace them 5 times for the amount a new ECU costs.

nxski wrote:The manual glow plug solution was suggested by CVI. If you can solve my problem without selling me new glow plugs or a new ECU then I'll try to bring the van in for you to look at it. I'm tired of speculation though. Also, what else does the ECU do?..Because I've been driving without it and without glow plugs for 2 days now.

On top of that, even if my glow plugs wear out more quickly, I can replace them 5 times for the amount a new ECU costs.

We are studying how No original ECU can affect a delica IP and idle vacuum , etc.
It can be different depending on turbo system ( oil cooled, or water cooled ), but we still work on it.
Of course you can drive a delica without ECU and glowplugs once you fire up.

I am pretty sure most delicas from Japan have never changed glow plugs since production ( 15-20 years ), because glow plug control system have worked fine.
It will be waste of money if you replace glow plugs very often under the manual system as glow plugs are very expensive as well.
It should be fixed as it has been, and you don't need to replace them very often and no hassle.

If you claim our new system is expensive, I got nothing to say.

Steven

I don't mean to say that your system is expensive, just a new ECU in general. Mine has been tested and repaired and works fine. How often would you say the glow plugs will wear out? I plan to replace mine every 2 years @ $110 for a set of 4 original Mitsubishi glow plugs. I find that cost to be quite minimal. Maybe in the future I will switch to 11v and simply re-wire my manual switch through the 12v relay. As for now it seems wasteful and expensive to replace brand new glow plugs.

At any rate, I need to install the manual system and find out if that solves my problem. If there is a connection problem I may still need to troubleshoot after that.

Do you have the old glow plugs? Connect them back up (do not need to install) and try it to see if it the plugs....Resistance maybe different.

When I had my VW 1.6NA diesel with low compression it need great glow plugs to start at -30 in the North. I tried lots of different glow plugs and only the BOSH ones worked (all fit the motor but other brands really sucked). All glow plugs are not equal.


If my ECU goes (or should I say when) I am going to us the glow plug relay from a Mercedes OM616 or OM617 it has input of temperature and then times the glow plugs (I suspect it will need 12V plugs). The controller is seriously tough, in billions of cars, sell for around $100.00 new and has the relay built in. You want the newer "pencil" design with the plugs in parallel not Series (ie not running at 2.5volts)

Had one in my Mercedes powered Jeep I built wonderful stuff....I just do not see the point in spending money on the Delica ECU since it seems to be poorly built and over priced.

Here is the complicated wiring diagram:
http://mercedesdiesel4x4.com/Documents/ ... Wiring.pdf

nxski wrote: I plan to replace mine every 2 years @ $110 for a set of 4 original Mitsubishi glow plugs. I find that cost to be quite minimal.

Is that true original Mitsubishi glow plug ( set of 4 ) cost you $110?
As far as I know, it will cost $110 ( 7,500 yen in Mitsubishi Japan ) each 1 unit, not 4.
If you have a good source, let us know.

How often you have to replace glow plugs under manual system totally depend on how you can predict the optimum engine temperature accurately and fire up without sending signal.

Steven

Thanks for the info Djjack. I'll see if the old ones are still around. As for the ECU I'll go with manual for now and see how long they last. If I make it to the 2 year mark I'm singing, if not I'll try one of those other options.

Yes, the price is correct but that is my trade secret unfortunately...I think I already said too much

It always amazes me how much auto parts cost when you consider the materials and time that goes into making them compared to other items. (granted, some things are built to be much more durable than your average household item).

nxski wrote:
Yes, the price is correct but that is my trade secret unfortunately...I think I already said too much.

You mean supplier does not sell full set at $110?
How much would the regular retail price go?
I just thought someone cheated you with fake or you got used ones.

Steven

Here is a good page about the Mercedes system....do the manual for now and later I would go this way....I still think the glow plugs are the problem...

http://mb.bolinko.org/15/index.php?opti ... &Itemid=75

Cheers