Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Ok, the turbo talk it getting off topic but...
I crawled around under the truck today to try and figure out how you did it. The connection between the turbo and the plenum is a short hose (3" max)The turbo and the plenum are only about 4" max apart. The hose is just long enough to make the connection between the 2. In order to get the plumbing in place the turbo needs to move down in order to be able to put in a couple of 90 degree bends in there. I think it is around a 2" diameter hose so you would have to move it all down at least 8" in order to allow for the diameter of a bend.
The best I can figure that you are doing is running the intercooler before the turbo. If this is what you are doing and if it works and you are happy with it that is fine BUT DO NOT ADD MORE THAN 15LBS BOOST. Even though that is the purpose of adding an intercooler, to be able to add more boost and get more power. If yours is plumbed this way, it is not truly an intercooler and you will start doing damage.

Ok, back on topic. For those of you who aren't happy with your shift points, there is a cable that comes from the transmission up to the throttle linkage on your injection pump. Mine has a red boot on it at the top. There are 2 adjustments you can make to change the shift points a bit but make the adjustments small. I started playing with mine a bit to fine tune but haven't spent much time on it. 1st adjustment is the 2 14mm lock nuts for adjusting cable slack. If you want it to shift later, make the cable tighter, shift sooner- make the cable looser. There is also an adjustment with 2 8mm bolts right where it attaches to the throttle linkage. I havent played with this one yet but it looks to change the way it "ramps" up. So in theory, make the attachment the longest possible and it should delay shifting, make it shorter and it should make shifting earlier.
If you play with them, just make sure you mark where you started so if worse things happen (rough shifting, shifts worse) you can get back to where you were. Keep the adjustments slight and do 1 at a time but relax, it isn't going to destroy your truck if you do go too far and try it.
Keep in mind I don't know that actual procedure in the manual for adjusting the cable, this is all just from personal experience with automatic transmissions.

Agree that adjustment should be made in very small graduations.
I destroyed a mopar tranny in one day by disconnecting the tranny shift linkage from the throttle. The effect was the same as a tranny setup with a manual valve body - I would have to shift by using the gear selector (ie, L for 1st, 2 for 2nd etc - manually shifting to the desired gear). I was not aware that the tranny line pressure was effectively at zero and destroyed many internal parts in one fun day or driving around - yes, I was 16 at the time....expensive lesson.....SMALL graduations will be fine....do not disconnect and drive the vehicle under any circumstances!

I use my 2L every day and laugh at all the people who ride there brakes all the way down the hill.

EricN wrote:Ok, back on topic. For those of you who aren't happy with your shift points, there is a cable that comes from the transmission up to the throttle linkage on your injection pump. Mine has a red boot on it at the top. There are 2 adjustments you can make to change the shift points a bit but make the adjustments small. I started playing with mine a bit to fine tune but haven't spent much time on it. 1st adjustment is the 2 14mm lock nuts for adjusting cable slack. If you want it to shift later, make the cable tighter, shift sooner- make the cable looser. There is also an adjustment with 2 8mm bolts right where it attaches to the throttle linkage. I havent played with this one yet but it looks to change the way it "ramps" up. So in theory, make the attachment the longest possible and it should delay shifting, make it shorter and it should make shifting earlier.
If you play with them, just make sure you mark where you started so if worse things happen (rough shifting, shifts worse) you can get back to where you were. Keep the adjustments slight and do 1 at a time but relax, it isn't going to destroy your truck if you do go too far and try it.
Keep in mind I don't know that actual procedure in the manual for adjusting the cable, this is all just from personal experience with automatic transmissions.

I finally got around to adjusting this cable today and I had to slacken it up all the way at the 14mm nuts to get mine shifting like a normal vehicle, which probably isn't a good sign... still playing with the adjustment for the shift point curve, harder to notice the difference.

Schwa wrote:

marsgal42 wrote:The transmission thinks that lugging at 1500 RPM up hills is A Good Thing, and, being a diesel, it's probably right.

That's pretty rare with mine, it usually keeps the revs annoyingly high on the slightest hill and I keep wishing it would shift for the low RPM torque ... perhaps all our transmissions are a bit out of spec? Mine's late shifting high-rpm biased, and DelicaMark's shifts too early, so clearly they vary somewhat.

Not all Delica's came with the same gearing ratio.

Some are higher/lower than others which would account for the different shift points / RPM range.

Jesse

jfarsang wrote:Not all Delica's came with the same gearing ratio.

Some are higher/lower than others which would account for the different shift points / RPM range.

Jesse

Good point on that one. Also, keep in mind that your shift point is going to be different with overdrive engaged/disengaged. Usually the transmission will want to shift earlier with the overdrive engaged.

I don't think down-shifting these vehicles should be a problem, especially when considering it's a 2-tonne vehicle. Big rigs engine-brake all the time (using a "Jake Brake" (yes, it's a trademarked name), but it's the same principle), and one down-shifts in a manual car, why not in an automatic?

I've found it especially useful when pulling the Starcraft behind Moon Machine, even with the trailer brake.

patty wrote:Earlier this year i went on a trip to bella coola with my deli.We took the duffy and for those hwo dont know it certainley isnt a tame road.for the long up hils i turned over drive off and when i was comming down into lilloette i used 2 and low a couple times.iv scene one to many people have to use those run away lanes when there breaks blew out and iid have to say its not something id like to experiance.
i did have a small question about other normel driving.before i got my own car i was driving my moms 2004 4 runner.i always just laid on the gas every where and never really payed attention to the techometer(because it was automatic)it always just shifted gears real smooth.now in the deli i find that when it get to around 3000 RPM i slightley lay off the gas so it shifts,is this healthy or should i just keep heaven on it till it switches?

Agree with Patty here, of all the times I've been over the Bella Coola hill found the Delica to be my favorite going down. Working between 2 and 1, and using the brakes only lightly, all the way down could actual touch my front wheel without getting a major burn. Pulling over at the trail head for Hunlen Falls is a great place to watch rig, motorhomes, what have you, driving by just smoking from the wheels; good fun. Favorite rig going up; my front wheel drive caddy with it's built 501 engine - 8.2 liters of american gas guzzling excess.

Eric, some of the install pictures from the Taiwan site look like you described.

In general, I don't downshift much. A mechanic I respected once told me, "it's cheaper to replace brake pads and rotors than transmissions." But on long downhills I certainly downshift. If you don't downshift, the thing to do is not ride the brake -- let the speed build up, brake fairly hard to slow it down, then take foot off the brake. This lets the brakes cool down before the next braking session. May annoy the guy on your tail, but steady speed isn't always a good thing.

Long downhills make me wish it was an electric or hydraulic hybrid... always nice to have engine braking energy stored up for use later.

Another point about using brakes for long periods on long downhill roads is if the brakes overheat in extreme cases it can cause the brake fluid to boil. If that happens your brake pedal will become spongy and will need to be 'pumped' to get any pressure or may even lose brakes altogether!

Barry.