Deli Hell

[EricE]

So here's the story . Checked on the price of a new pulley threw Rocky Mountain , a new front crank seal is required as well due to a new shape in the pulley . All in around $400. Yikes
Got underneath my crank pulley seemed solid with one small hairline crack in the outside pulley wing . Will order one up from the states free deliver to the USA . About $64. While I was looking around across a strut lay the lower alternator mounting bolt . It had come right out !!!.
Bought a new nut replaced the bolt and bobs your uncle . The AC compressor bearings howl trying some penetrating oil , will look to see if the Florida supplier has this part too.
With the alternator back in line the overdrive is again functioning normally . Strangely enough

[CREGAN]

So did you get the new front crank seal too? I am going to order the pulley tomorrow from the states. I just don't understand why that part, which most forums say is a fairly common part to go, would cost so much to replace around here. Is the difference OEM vs non-OEM?

Craig

[EricE]

Didn't order a new seal . The only reason for changing it is Mitsubishi changed the pulley and it bumps into the old style seal . If this one has that issue Rocky has then for $30

[Feds]

I didn't change the front seal with the Amazon part. Thats funny about the alt bolt. I've also had that happen.

[CREGAN]

So - still wondering if it is wise to change the belts after changing this pulley. I have about 85 000km on these belts. Anyone know the change intervals for belts?

I ordered the pulley. Express shipping would put the part at the same price as the shipping. I went regular because I have some time to wait.

Craig

[Feds]

It is literally no extra work to change the belts. You might as well while you are in there. You may also want to think about lower rad hose since you're in that deep with some room to work.

[Firesong]

I'm the kind of person who would look at the belts and see if there was any glazing or cracks. If not... Leave them.

[izack98]

Re: the original post from EricE.....
EricE, are your A/C compressor bearings still noisy?

Mine started to make noise a couple of months ago, then the belt burned off. I replaced the belt and the compressor began to make a rumbling noise. I took off the belt and opted to wait until the weather was nicer and I had more time to look at it.
Yesterday I checked the crankshaft pulley and it looks fine. While under there I had a look at the A/C compressor. The van is parked on a slight incline. Nose down. I noticed what I finally determined is oil from the A/C dripping off the case of the compressor (smells like compressor oil, feels like oil and is clean and honey coloured (I originally thought it may be antifreeze from a leak).
Anyone had this issue with the compressor leaking oil?
I am thinking it may be the front seal, so the compressor will need new seals & bearings. Has anyone ever done this successfully? Or is it just better to get a new compressor?

[CREGAN]

WOW- That new pulley came fast! It did not come with a new key (square piece of metal to hold/shim it in place).Did you just use the old one or will that be a problem? I do not have the old one out yet so I can't compare the two pulleys, but you say it matches up exactly right? Now I am just waiting on some new belts and maybe some time and then I canget this done. Nice weather would help too. It wasn't too much of a bitch to do was it?

Craig

[Feds]

I reused the original key. I honestly never considered replacing it. It's not generally a wear item.

Hardest part of the job is breaking the crank bolt loose. If you can do that, the rest is easy. I spent probably 2 hrs trying to break the bolt loose before I resorted to the starter motor. Make sure to loctite the crank bolt when you're done.

If you really carefully compare, there are 6 extra holes on the back of the pulley. These are for the timing ring for the electronic injection pump that you don't have. Consider it a weight saving mod.

[EricE]

Re: the original post from EricE.....
EricE, are your A/C compressor bearings still noisy?

Still have the clatter from the compressor . I read there is a 12mm clutch bolt in the center of the compressor that sometimes gets loose . Removing the belt until warmer weather . Picking my crank pulley up in Seattle next week.

[psilosin]

Don't leave your crank pulley if you suspect its going. When mine split it shifted everything forward and into my rad fan! I wish I saw the $65 replacement when I did mine...think I paid $400 goddamnit.

Tips:

Loosen: Using a breaker bar & a flick of the starter to loosen works a treat. Just remember to disconnect your fuel lines and run it a bit until it dies so there is 0 chance the engine is going to start when you do this trick...or else you are going to have a bad day :)

Tighten: Buy a universal pulley holder for the $20. This is worth the money. All the other tricks are are a pain in the ass and destined to failure and you will be left wondering if you really did tighten it to spec.

Here is a link from a post I made a while back that has a cool tip from Diver if you think your pulley is having issues. Also a picture of a sexy universal pulley holder.

http://www.delica.ca/forum/l400-crank-i ... ml#p101615

[CREGAN]

Buy a universal pulley holder for the $20. This is worth the money.

Hey! (The theme from Welcome Back Kotter is playing in the background).

So yeah- I get to try and fix this like you did. Not as lucky as you because I was able to catch mine in time before it broke a bunch of other crap like yours and provided you with hours of enjoyment. So where did you find this tool for $20? The cheapest I have found is on Amazon.ca for $54.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000Q8G ... YIK6Y9EEQB

Is it worth dropping $50 on a tool I am hopefully only going to have to use once?

Craig

[psilosin]

Yo I'm Vinnie Boberino! Back like a bad smell...

I got mine off Ebay for $17. With an automatic trans there just isn't a better way than the tool. They might have those available from cdn tire as a free loaner tool...I never thought about it until I was done the job, worth checking out.

You can try the two bolts and a crowbar which of all the things I tried worked the best after much swearing but I didn't trust it so it caused me stress. The strap method you might have come across is the worst...not only is it frustrating as hell trying to get enough tension...if you do you actually are risking destroying your new pulley because all that force is sheering againt the rubber center...doh!

With the tool its zip zap tug tug torque done...30 seconds.

[EricE]

PROBLEM SOLVED. Overdrive kicking in and out erratically . As you know from my past posts this started with the AC compressor bearings getting noisy a problem I haven't got to yet but on removing the compressor belt my Overdrive started acting up . This led to finding the alternator mounting bolt had fallen out so the belt tension was not there leading to a voltage drop . Also looked at the harmonic balancer pulley , mine is ok but has a hairline crack so I have a new one waiting to go on ordered from the US for $63 .
Tightening the alternator belts eliminated the overdrive problem for a while then it was back yesterday on a highway trip , suddenly Overdrive kicking in and out again .
The culprit a corroded nearly broken wire on the overdrive lockout thermostat connector, replaced the connector and bobs your uncle . This makes sense as with corroded connected there is a significant voltage drop so anything that would drop the battery voltage affected the overdrive.
This is a useless circuit there is no reason to have a overdrive lockout related to coolant temperature the best thing to do is attach the wire to ground eliminating the sensor . I understand this has been done at the factory on later models .

So what I learned , The electronics on the over drive are locked out by the overdrive bypass switch , the temp sensor and the speed sensor . The TPS is involved as well .

Overdrive Switch , check the voltage to the control unit , may also involve a fuse D17
Speed sensor . Will also affect the speedometer So it's easy to check.
TPS issues will affect all gears , if the other shift normally it's not the problem
Temp sensor , get rid of it wire the sensor with directly to ground.