Window channel adjustment

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FalcoColumbarius
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Window channel adjustment

Postby FalcoColumbarius » Tue Apr 28, 2015 10:22 am

A while back I closed my driver's side door with the window down. Something happened, I couldn't put my finger on it but something seemed different. Then I went to wind the window up and as it came up it stopped about halfway up. Okay, this could be scary. I guess I need to pull the skin off and see what has happened. Ah, the glass has come out of the forward guide. I re-adjust the glass back into the guide and Bob's yer uncle ~ it works again. Sometime later it happens again. All my anti RHD friends (or fiends) are saying (in a deep voice) "Oh, this is the beginning of the end. This is when you should trade your car in for a more practical, more suitably acceptable patriotic American built Ford Windstar" and all that rot.

Meanwhile, I'm getting good at re-adjusting my glass back into the guide. I no longer remove the inner skin from the door, just a few plastic rivets and my fingers know where to go.

So... I find myself in contact with Andii of the Shaun van Ramen about door issues. The Shaun van Ramen was hit and consequently the passenger door was replaced. I paid a visit to the House of van Ramen and we disassembled what was left of the old door. I mentioned about my window issue and my thoughts on what could be causing it. After we finished with Shaun's old door, we take a look at the Miss Lil' Bitchi's door and started brainstorming. Having been milling about with all the door components, we got to thinking. I thought that maybe it was a some rubber or plastic part at the aft end of the window configuration that had worn out and no longer kept it in the track but we could not find any such thing. The other option was at the guide itself. This is where Andii looks more carefully at the two bolts that hold the guide in place. Lo and behold, after years of vibration from driving down logging roads &c., they've loosened off and this is the source of the issue.

If you ever close your door and you hear a rattle ~ this is why. It's these two bolts, the guide and the glass vibrating. It is also a symptom that your window is going to have this issue. We repositioned the guide (you pretty much are "tuning" it) and tightened the bolts. The window now closes properly and get this ~ the door doesn't rattle anymore. It closes like a brand new car door ~ and all it took was the tightening of two ten millimetre bolts! So simple.

This post is the preface to the rest of the thread where we're going to describe, step by step how it works, as time permits. Perhaps Andii can take pictures of his old door components for reference purposes.

Falco.
Sent from my smart pad, using a pen.

Seek Beauty... Image Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi

...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb

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FalcoColumbarius
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Re: Two Ten Millimetre Self-Tapping Bolts And A Window.

Postby FalcoColumbarius » Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:55 pm

Tools:

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Subject:

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Unscrew the locking pin:

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Remove stoppers from the arm rest:

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Where it comes to replacing the stoppers, bear in mind that they have to be inserted the correct way:

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The door latch has a little trap door, behind which is a screw that holds it on. open it to remove the screw:

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Next you have to lift the latch in order to pull the tray part out:

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Unscrew the arm rest screws with the bigger of the two philips screw drivers:

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Now you have ten plastic rivets to pull from the door's body. You need this tool for this. If you just pull on the door liner the rivets will stay anchored in the door but you'll rip the press board liner away from the rivets and you will need to replace the liner. The tool must be under the lip of the rivet, not just the liner:

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Apart from the rivets, which hopefully are still in the undamaged door liner, this is what you should have in the way of items removed from the operation:

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This is what the backside of your liner looks like. Note the ten white plastic rivets and how they are slotted into the press board:

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These are the bolts of interest. They loosen off in the hole of the door, which is bigger than the bolt, just enough to allow the guide to slip and the next time someone slams the door closed it shifts until evenually the glass slips out of the guide:

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The lower bolt is under a cover that you need to remove. Don't throw the cover away, it protects the guts of your door, especially if you're fording:

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For the upper bolt, peel away the plastic to get to the bolt:

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Adjust and or tighten the bolts:

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Once you've re-aligned the guide you need to put it back together. When doing so you must make sure that the little collar that goes around the locking pin is properly seated and snapped into place or the pin will jam on it and the locks won't work. When screwing the pin back onto the thread you should feel no resistance. If it becomes difficult to turn then back it off and reseat the collar.

Falco.
Sent from my smart pad, using a pen.

Seek Beauty... Image Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi

...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb

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Lapprentis
Posts: 354
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Vehicle: Delica L300 StarWagon 1990
Location: Quebec

Re: Two Ten Millimetre Self-Tapping Bolts And A Window.

Postby Lapprentis » Sat Nov 07, 2015 3:38 pm

My door is a little bit different with NO speakers but having a light on it and did want to check if everything was OK for my door windows so opened the left door and everithing seems to be ok as for bolts tightening so I just put some dielctric grease inside the windows rubber chanel and also lubricate internal door opening-locking necanism, then put back everything together to go and open the right door. The bolts there where OK too but I notice the higher rubber guide then realised the one on the left had slippered down with uses over time :shock: So closed the right door inside and reopened the left door and slide up the rubber guide, then reclose it. Now, was not sure about if the right door rubber guide were at the very top of the metal guides holding it so reopened the right door just to check if everything was OK, and it was :o Now I know how to get inside the doors believe me :-D
Suggestions: have some kind of hard sticking tape as the plastic behind the panels may have shrink over time. Also, wait until both sides are done BEFORE putting everything back together.... :? Finally, have something to lubricate the inside of the ribberized channel. Have some carpenter glue if ever you damage the cardboard that hold the plastic pins.
GREAT POST Falco :-D
Lapprentis :M

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FalcoColumbarius
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Posts: 5976
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:55 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/index.php?cat=11103
Vehicle: Delica; Chamonix GLX ('92 P25W)
Location: North Van, BC, eh?

Re: Two Ten Millimetre Self-Tapping Bolts And A Window.

Postby FalcoColumbarius » Sun Nov 08, 2015 2:06 pm

Ah, yes... I put those speakers in because I really dig my tunes and want to be bathed in audio wonderness. Most Starwagons do not come with them (that I am aware of). Was there a specific reason why you used Dielectric grease over regular grease?

Falco.
Sent from my smart pad, using a pen.

Seek Beauty... Image Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi

...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb

User avatar
Lapprentis
Posts: 354
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:02 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
Vehicle: Delica L300 StarWagon 1990
Location: Quebec

Re: Two Ten Millimetre Self-Tapping Bolts And A Window.

Postby Lapprentis » Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:05 pm

Falco, from what I know, dielectric grease seems to be more rubber friendly than other stuff so I am putting it almost everywhere including, of course, on all electric connectors I can find in my Delica :o

Lapprentis :M


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