Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I bought this cheap one on ebay for $33.00. Works great (for how long I don't know). The big thing for me was to get a handle on what really pushes the temps up into a dangerous zone, regular hills, crazy steep ones, or just the 'hat. Driving around the region the last week and the highest I've ever been able to get it to go is just over 800, driving with a heavy pedal all the way up the hill on the Pat Bay from Islandview rd. I suspect that it will take something like the Malahat to really make the thing peg, which is good to know (and to avoid). Most driving around town gets between 300-400 degrees, depending on how sedately I drive.

where is your prob?

Are you post turbo...Temps seem a little low (like a post turbo)

It is post turbo. I was originally considering installing it pre turbo, but that looked like a crazy amount of work, while post was a snap. I have the probe installed right at the opening of the turbine. I realize the temps will be a bit lower, but honestly it was the baseline I was looking for and to find out how hard the vehicle needed to be pushed to really get those temps going. As I found out, you really do have to push her hard, and is not something you would encounter in typical driving. The next step is a prolonged mountain ride where the van has to work hard a lot, and see how frequently she nudges into the danger zone. I'm hoping that only obviously difficult climbs like the Coquihalla and Malahat are the places where you have to be cautious.

800 celcius is 1475 F. regular old aluminum has melting point near 1200F, where as I have no idea what our heads/pistons alum alloy compound truly is.

anyways, from earlier topics about temps, I though 1200F post/1400F pre turbo was a peak and to be held for only a short amount of time.

otherwise, we could run all day at 1000F post / 1200 pre turbo as a guideline.

anybody please re-iterate/correct me or point us towards the old thread with correct info.

I think your numbers are correct; what I failed to take into account was the conversion between Celsius and Fahrenheit! I thought the danger zone was near 1200C, not 1200F! Big difference there. Glad you pointed it out.

So what this tells me is that it's actually not that hard to push the van into the red zone. I'm wondering if I have a fueling problem, which can increase EGT. As my pedal get's closer to the floor I start to see black smoke and with full throttle it just boils out in a dense black cloud, regardless of engine RPM. I've got my EGR blocked off. I've heard that they can smoke in those conditions, but how much is too much? That doesn't seem right to me that it would be designed to smoke (unburnt fuel) under heavy load. Sounds like too much fuel or not enough air.

It really isn't hard to push your vehicle to the danger zone. I also don't think that having it quickly pass over 1200 as long as you catch it quickly and let it cool down. I've had mine up to 1700, which killed the probe and intensified my exhaust leak, but the engine is still fine 60k later.

Temperatures seem right for after turbo...remember the turbo acts as a heat sink so spikes will not be seen as fast....

The easy place to install before the turbo is in the EGR blanking plate (have to pull the EGR out)...

Looks good...