What did you do TO your Delica today?

[lrp374]

Thanks for the comments on the winch Almac. Maybe we need an Interior show and tell - preferably @ a lake that has fish!!

[FalcoColumbarius]

Regreased my calliper pins, both locking and guide. I also greased the backs of the pads, which were bone dry and removed an extra shim from the driver's side outer ~ consequently my brakes no longer squeal when I use them and my hubs are much cooler.

Falco.

[quided]

Took the footsteps off and cleaned them up then put a couple coats of spray on truck bedliner rock gaurd, then decided to switch up the plastic steps with some extra cedar wood I had laying around. Going to coat it with weather celant if I decide to keep the wood on. I think i dig it.

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[Beausoleil74]

After two short Alberta winters, I noticed some rust spots on the front bumper chrome. I lightly sanded the spots, and after drying them thought I'd experiment with some clear drying silicone (yeah like for your sink) Smeared it on, it dried clear and it looked fine. Now if it last the winter and actually prevents rust only time will tell .It only took a few minutes and if it doesn't work it won't cause any harm.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Been changing out my ATF two times thus far, 2.5 litres at a time. It was a little brownish so I want to flush the system through with ATF. So far I've done this twice, the next time (third) I drain the tranny I'll open the bottom pan and clean out the screen. When I do the fourth time I will put an additive in with the ATF.

Falco.

[stever1000]

Hey Falco, what additive are you planning to add in the future? Thanks!

[Lapprentis]

OMG, I am reply 666 hope this one will be behind us soon

Ok, Put Stainless Steel Hoses front and rear. Considering safety and longterm ownership I putted these on though 25YO factory ones seems OK so I ketpt these in case.

Put Bilstein Shocks (original stock shocks totally inefective) ) Front AND Rear, as well as Heavy Duty Torsion bars. Wow, Like Jessef stated in a dedicated post: the Van is now literally Sticking to the Road: more bumpy yes but Handling-Cornering and Fighting against Cross-Wind MUCH BETTER. Front Bilstein for stock height replacement are still availble at fair price in NA. Rear ones, about 3X the front price and only available in Europe (from what I found).

Lapprentis

[north54]

Today was new rotor front bearings. I arrived at my workspace at 11am and thought I would have ample time to finish the job, 8 hours or so till sunset. New rotors and bearings shouldn't take more than a few hours. Wrong when your dealing with my vehicle aka trusty rusty. My van is reliable, enjoyable and a pain when it comes to removing bolts.

Removing the hub assembly is okay, count the rotations as you unscrew the bearing retainer screw. 9 turns. Pull the hub, tap out the old bearings, clean the races well. Unbolt the rotors from the hub. They're all seized. Okay get out the Jig a Loo and heat. Now try with 2 14mm sockets and breaker bars. 3 unscrew okay, success! But not without a ton of effort. 2 bolts break when unscrewing. The last had to have its head cut off with an angle grinder.

Okay time to find some replacement bolts! Its Saturday, need 55mm m10. Auto Parts plus no, Lordco no. Finally settled on some bolts from Rona but 60mm long. I ended up cutting them with the angle grinder to the correct length. Phew. Its 3pm now.

But before you can put the new rotor on you have to remove it from the hub shell. Easy right. Negatory. The hub shell was encrusted with rust and since the hub and rotor slide together very tightly it took a chisel to pound it apart.

Its now 5pm and the new bearings are packed and pressed in. Rotor bolted on. By 5:30pm the right wheel is back together. Okay I'm getting tired now and I still have to do the left wheel. Just do it.

The gods were smiling on me as all the rotor bolts came unseized without breaking! Once again the hardest job was unscrewing them and separating rotor from hub. Bearings are a piece of cake compared to rotors if you have extensive rust.

Its now 8pm and I finally leave my workspace. Everythings back together. Drive home 10 mins and everything feels good and smooth. Subtle differences but lasting ones.

[FalcoColumbarius]

I rewrapped and rebound my wheel:



Here's the old snake, looking worn:


The new one certainly looks sharper but I find it a little slippery. Since I bound it it's a better grip but I like the sponginess of the old snake, better for palming ~ they just didn't have it. I might return this one, not sure.

Falco.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Hey Falco, what additive are you planning to add in the future? Thanks!

Sorry Stever, I missed your post. I'm using a product called "LubeGard":

• 

I got it from Mister Transmission.

Falco.

P.S.: It's for Dextron III, what I'm currently running with.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Well... it's been a busy season! One, changed my oil and managed to procure gasket/filter screen kit from Mardy for my tranny but have not installed it yet.

Fried my ECU, one of the big capacitors degassed and left a small crater in the PC board, been working on that with Morganizer. Turns out that not all Starwagon ECUs are the same: My ECU is about twice the size of Morganizer's. His Starwagon is a '94 and doesn't have the Winter Package so I'm curious: Is it because his wagon is two years newer or because of the battery/alternator configuration difference? Consequently, I've had to hotwire my super glows every morning to get her started (thanks to Morganizer for the wire and clip set-up that he made for me). However, having to open the engine compartment to hotwire the plugs got old after two weeks (although I got it down to a minute:30) so I went to KMS Tools and bought an hand held momentary starter switch, some 12' of heater cable and adaptors, cut the switch open removed the wires that came with it and soldered in two six foot lengths of the heater cable and glued the switch casing back together with my trusty glue gun. The switch now hangs to the left of my calf and the cables run up the side of the E brake handle and enter the engine compartment with the fuel hatch release switch cable, then into a split loom channel, one cable gets off at the glow plugs, the other follows the loom into the battery compartment, where it's wired to number one's hot terminal. Now it's much more convenient at start-up. Next is to try the ECU out now that Morganizer has done some work on it and see how successful he was.

Had the console apart, somewhat, to change out some burned out light bulbs, one for the heater/fan switches and one for the "D" light in the instrument cluster.

Aired my tyres. They had gone from 42 PSI to 34 PSI over a period of a month with the seasonal barometric change. Fuel economy has improved.

Falco.

[Growlerbearnz]

The '94s and up had revised, modernised wiring, and they seem to have changed a number of things. The one I'm most familiar with is the power windows- those new-style window switches have a separate controller and don't work in an older model. I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU was upgraded as well.

[FalcoColumbarius]

I'm going to meet with Morganizer this weekend, he's planning to update his thread on the ECU (http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=15336). Part of the plan is to categorize these differences and enhance the information. We've seen three different boards so far.

Falco.

[T2Small]

Had to re-tension the alternator belt as it was becoming embarrassing starting it up in the morning. The tensioner pulley looks pretty suspect (rusty and the bearing has play) so I'll see if I can find a replacement for that.

The middle interior light was not coming on, and replacing the bulb promptly blew the fuse! Thinking I need to just make sure both rear lights are off, I blew the fuse the second time! It turns out the fuse controlling the interior lights and remote keyless entry aren't in the fuse panel underneath the driver's dash, but in the engine bay. I extracted the light housing and it seems the wires themselves had an intermittent short. As noticed by others it seems like the wiring gauge is incredibly thin. I suspect some insulation was actually rubbing and grounding out to the light housing itself. Fixed up, and back together.

This morning I dropped it off for detailing to get rid of the Japanese smoker smell. :)

[FalcoColumbarius]

Developed a teency-weency perforation in my upper radiator tank. It's where the upper hose pipe is, in fact it was caused by that pipe, perhaps many kilometres of dirt road over the years jarred the pipe into the tank bulkhead? Anyway I took it to a place in North Van on Hunter Street called AERS Radiators. Right then and there and thirty bucks later ~ repaired.

Falco.