Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Hey there everybody!

After recently reading some posts about the dreaded underbody rust i decided to take a peek underneath assess what kind of situation my Deli is in. It's not bad but there is for sure some areas I want to take care of before they get any worse. I proded the bad bits with a screwdriver to see how deep the rot was and it appears there is still good metal underneath and it's mostly surface.

First album is of the worst spots

https://imgur.com/gallery/6ecaa

Second album is everything underneath

https://imgur.com/gallery/Ny17m

I'm reaching out to see what you guys think would be the best course of action. I've read that prepping and using the POR15 products works well. Or should I just grab any rust converter and spray it on. I would like to do as much as possible to prevent any rust issues in the future.

Cheers!

For the visible rust I would use POR15, let it cure for a week, then coat the whole lot with an external wax like Wurth Body Protection Wax. If I were doing a full restoration and had repainted the entire chassis I would use an underbody schutz (the black, lumpy looking stuff that protects from stone chips), but it can hide new rust spots so isn't a great choice for a rust-prone chassis (whereas the wax will give corrosion protection, but won't hide any rust bubbling out from below).

For the unseen rust lurking inside I don't trust rust converters or paints, they don't get into all the seams. POR15 is alleged to wick into seams, but I don't like how hard it sets- seams move, especially around suspension points, and I worry that POR15 would crack and let water in.

I like Flood Penetrol- a wicking, rust preventative paintable oil, applied into the chassis rails with a flexible spray wand. The marketing for Penetrol sounds a bit snake-oily, but it's actually decent. Once the Penetrol has set for a week, I'd follow up with cavity wax (3M's Cavity Wax Plus is what I have on the shelf).

Growler ... nice info.
Thanks

Growler ... nice info.
Thanks

and to the poster, thanks for the great photos. My son and I are going to look at a 99 L400 134k. diesel tmro and I'll be sure to bring a couple strong flashlights to have a good look see.

Growlerbearnz wrote:For the visible rust I would use POR15, let it cure for a week, then coat the whole lot with an external wax like Wurth Body Protection Wax. If I were doing a full restoration and had repainted the entire chassis I would use an underbody schutz (the black, lumpy looking stuff that protects from stone chips), but it can hide new rust spots so isn't a great choice for a rust-prone chassis (whereas the wax will give corrosion protection, but won't hide any rust bubbling out from below).

For the unseen rust lurking inside I don't trust rust converters or paints, they don't get into all the seams. POR15 is alleged to wick into seams, but I don't like how hard it sets- seams move, especially around suspension points, and I worry that POR15 would crack and let water in.

I like Flood Penetrol- a wicking, rust preventative paintable oil, applied into the chassis rails with a flexible spray wand. The marketing for Penetrol sounds a bit snake-oily, but it's actually decent. Once the Penetrol has set for a week, I'd follow up with cavity wax (3M's Cavity Wax Plus is what I have on the shelf).

Hey growlerbearnz,

Do you do frame rust repair for pay or is it just a personal thing? I have some I would like to get dealt with as well as preventative stuff done as well.

Cheers

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poochike wrote:Do you do frame rust repair for pay or is it just a personal thing?

I restore cars as a hobby, so it's just for fun (though frame repair isn't much fun, if I'm honest). Also I live in New Zealand, which makes the logistics tricky. Sorry!

Growlerbearnz wrote:

poochike wrote:Do you do frame rust repair for pay or is it just a personal thing?

I restore cars as a hobby, so it's just for fun (though frame repair isn't much fun, if I'm honest). Also I live in New Zealand, which makes the logistics tricky. Sorry!

Ah yes, Vancouver is a bit of a swim. Thanks for the tips though.

Cheers

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I've got a 97 L400 that is very, very rust free on chassis and undebody arriving from Japan with Steven at Rising Sun in a couple weeks. Pictures showed very limited rust but it sounds like with the rust-prone L400 chassis an underbody wax, not an undercoat is the way to go. I'm mostly between Vancouver, Whistler and Mt.Baker with my Van on relatively salt free roads. Anyone in the Lower Mainland have a long term review of using underbody wax instead of an undercoat?

I'll ask Steven what he reccomends too. He used ziebart undercoat products on another thread here.

Here's a shot of the underside. This baby must have been garage stored for 20 years!

That is clean. I hear good things about Fluid Film and DinoEvo has a write up on it. http://dinoevo.de/rustproofing/

Whathever you choose to use, have it rusproofed upon arrival, even if you do not plan to drive salty roads. That day, revoved the spare tire so it is not in the way and talk to the guy that will apply the stuff and insist on having ALL the hard to reach places/corners well soaked

Lapprentis

dr_airtime - that's clean! My Strada was like that, pretty wild that a 20 year old vehicle can be in that great condition. Definitely undercoat it before the rust starts. I used a spray in box liner for the wheel wells (left overs from lining the truck box) and asphalt undercoating everywhere else, then park for the winter and drive my rusty subaru. If I drove my baby in the winter I'd spray it with fluid film. I tried some on my battery terminals a few months back and they look nice and clean today.

Growler's advice is bang on, physically remove as much rust as possible then use por 15, then fluid film. This is what I'll have to do to my Townace as it has some surface rust underneath. I will asphalt coat (schutz) the wheel wells as that is a high wear area and the fluid film with quickly wear off there.

I have always found this to be a losing battle in Manitoba, but you can slow rusts progression.

Ralph in Winnipeg

Thanks all. I'll go with Fluid Film then. For anyone in the Lower Mainland or Vancouver (Delica Central) I confirmed that Lordco carries Fluid Film and phoned the guys over at Classic Customs on Clark + 1st-ish who said they'd be happy to do it for me. Classic Customs refurbishes old cars so they should give the van that extra care and can do any rust grinding too when van is up on the lift. Should get good attention to detail with guys there.

Hope that helps for anyone else in Vancouver area thinking of doing the same.

Will post some pics in about a month when I get it done.

dr_airtime wrote:Thanks all. I'll go with Fluid Film then. For anyone in the Lower Mainland or Vancouver (Delica Central) I confirmed that Lordco carries Fluid Film and phoned the guys over at Classic Customs on Clark + 1st-ish who said they'd be happy to do it for me. Classic Customs refurbishes old cars so they should give the van that extra care and can do any rust grinding too when van is up on the lift. Should get good attention to detail with guys there.

Hope that helps for anyone else in Vancouver area thinking of doing the same.

Will post some pics in about a month when I get it done.

Looking forward to the results.

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Gave up trying to find a paint shop that will do the Fluid Film for me so will be a day project in a couple weekends to do myself. Bought a cheap “thick fluid” gun at Lordco for 30 bucks and Lordco stocks the cans of fluid film. Also they carry a 20 buck gun for the regular rubbery-bottom coat solution you can use for wheel wells. May even be able to paint the wheel well coating on.

Will probably attempt in a couple weekends and will post pics here to elaborate on Dinoevo’s attempt from before with the fluid film bottom coat.

Consider wearing a disposable tyvek overall, and some kind of disposable hat. Those underseal sprayers can be a bit random.