Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Mitsubishi Delica L400 production commenced in 1994 -- After much anticipation, the L400 arrived on Canadian Soil in 2009!
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Kamon
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Kamon »

Hello all
1994 L400 2.8 150XXX kms
I was driving to work this morning after fighting a bit this morning with her (new IP seal put in, i think it needs glowplugs now) and about half way to running temp.she was running normal when i stopped at a red light and upon accelerating i had no power at all, smoke everywhere and knocking from the motor. I learned that if I feather the pedal i can avoid tonnes of black smoke and knocking but im going pretty slow, if i push it around 1500rpm then smoke and knocking. Idles smooth but runs rough when revved, not knocking and spewing smoke. Didnt feel comfortable pushing it very much at all, just limped it home, took a video driving it and parked her.
Newer injectors, replaced head, IP seal done. tried washing a bunch of old oil off of the bottom of the motor last night... but im not sure how that would cause this problem unless i knocked a sensor/vacuum line loose? Ive read blanking off EGR could help, or more injector problems. Any help or advice would be great.

Im trying to get a video up but im having issues so If i can Ill put it up in a larer post

Thanks
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Big-Bird
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Big-Bird »

Was it running fine after your recent service?

If so check the waste gate on the turbo. It could be stuck open which prevents the turbo from building pressure and the engine will burn blue, black and white.

If the EGR is faulty it can do much the same thing...but being light on the pedal will get you home. You can disconnect and plug the vacuum line that open the EGR. My EGR developed a weak spring and would open with barely any vacuum...popped, knocked, black smoke all the way up the Coq' we plugged the line and the problem went away. Now I need a blanking plate.


Both conditions cause incomplete fuel burn and the engine runs horribly.
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Feds
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Feds »

Check your oil. See if it's full of diesel. My symptoms were similar. Perhaps the ip seal wasn't installed properly.
Kamon
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Kamon »

Thanks you guys for your insight, I blocked the EGR vac tube and it's running better than ever, very noticeable power increase. I'm surprised how much of a difference it made. I think I'd be a very lost delica owner without this website. But the abundance of information available for this vehicle is part of the reason why I own one.
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Big-Bird
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Big-Bird »

That EGR can be such a pain when they fail. They can't be fixed its a waste of money to replace. Get or fabricate a proper blanking plate and seal the 2 connections......mine opened at the wrong time and scared the crap outa everyone on the highway.....so much black smoke...it blinded traffic a few times. I thought the turbo packed it in. Easy fix thanks to CVI.

But highly recommend the blanking plate kit. The UK ebay sites are good. Have it shipped royal air mail...should be at your door in under 2 weeks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-BLANKING- ... 1e859e28a5
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Kamon
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Kamon »

Thanks for the lead big bird, I was thinking of just making my own plates but I did that on my lj78 Iandcruiser I used to have and it was kind of sloppy. Now all that's left is glow plugs/ manual switch repairs.
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Big-Bird
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Re: Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Big-Bird »

Glow plug tips:

Get a good quality set. Mardy at Amazing Auto carries a reliable brand with a 2 yr warranty....Expensive little suckers but oh so worth the cost/confidence that your Deli will start in Alberta winter weather. I bought em...choked a little on the cost but I tried a cheaper set from the UK that lasted 2-3 months and quit in December...I hated freezing my tail in -20 to swap em out but a guy has to get around somehow!

Test your old ones with your battery and test leads/battery cables. Count how long they take to glow bright red/orange. 5-6 second hold time with a hot glowing tip indicates a good plug. There is also a ohms test you can perform on each plug but I prefer the battery/time test.

Keep good plugs as spares. Clean the bus bar that connects the glow plugs with a scotch-brite pad before you connect your new plugs.
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Delica_Acadie
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Delica_Acadie »

Kamon wrote:Thanks you guys for your insight, I blocked the EGR vac tube and it's running better than ever, very noticeable power increase. I'm surprised how much of a difference it made. I think I'd be a very lost delica owner without this website. But the abundance of information available for this vehicle is part of the reason why I own one.

It seems that i have the same issue at this moment. I changed my fuel filter and treated the diesel. The issue is still happening. I am waiting for the blanking plates of the EGR that should get here by end of Febuary. In the meantime i try to understand if i could do what you did and plug the pipe? Can you explain? Is it the little pipe going to the egr?
poochike
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by poochike »

Delica_Acadie wrote:
Kamon wrote:Thanks you guys for your insight, I blocked the EGR vac tube and it's running better than ever, very noticeable power increase. I'm surprised how much of a difference it made. I think I'd be a very lost delica owner without this website. But the abundance of information available for this vehicle is part of the reason why I own one.

It seems that i have the same issue at this moment. I changed my fuel filter and treated the diesel. The issue is still happening. I am waiting for the blanking plates of the EGR that should get here by end of Febuary. In the meantime i try to understand if i could do what you did and plug the pipe? Can you explain? Is it the little pipe going to the egr?
Yes, the little rubber hose that connects to the EGR actuator. Pull it off the actuator an plug it with a bolt or ball bearing. If your EGR is gunked up and stuck open this won't help, but if it will still close this will work.

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Delica_Acadie
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Delica_Acadie »

Thanks poochike,

So do i need to also plug the EGR valve where the rubber pipe was? I will let you know how that went for me.

I ordored the blanking kit https://www.ebay.ca/itm/EGR-BLANKING-PL ... 1662806128

I wonder if i will need a seal to put those plates? And when i install those do i leave the valve there with those plates installed or do i remove the EGR totally and just place the plates. Thanks again for your help.
Delica_Acadie
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Delica_Acadie »

Here is a pic of my EGR valve ...there is a little aluminum plate in between. Is it from the original or was it an attempt to blank the EGR valve?
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poochike
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by poochike »

Delica_Acadie wrote:Here is a pic of my EGR valve ...there is a little aluminum plate in between. Is it from the original or was it an attempt to blank the EGR valve?
You will remove the EGR when you install the blanking plates AND plug the vacuum hose that you remove from the EGR actuator. If you do not plug the hose it will suck dirty air into your vacuum pump and may cause vacuum issues elsewhere (brakes, 4x4, etc). The plate you see at the top of the EGR is just a seal, meant to be there. I can't remember if you need to add a seal to the blanking plate kit or not. I think it comes with everything you need though.

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Delica_Acadie
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by Delica_Acadie »

Thanks Poochike!
Plugging the rubber pipe with a bolt works great. Got all the power back and seems like if it wasn't running that great before. So now I am just waiting for my plates. In the meantime, do i plug the EGR valve where the rubber hose was? Thank you very much for the help, really appreciated.
poochike
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Loss of Power with knocking/clatter

Post by poochike »

Delica_Acadie wrote:Thanks Poochike!
Plugging the rubber pipe with a bolt works great. Got all the power back and seems like if it wasn't running that great before. So now I am just waiting for my plates. In the meantime, do i plug the EGR valve where the rubber hose was? Thank you very much for the help, really appreciated.
That's great news! The egr side can stay unplugged as it will have no vacuum and can cause no harm.

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