Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Yesterday after work @ 2:30 pm I started my van with no or little problem ( a little splutter). Just idle for a minute and drove away slowly. The temp. was still cold on the dial. It stalled after driving for about couple kilometers on the highway without any warning. I was able to row it to the side and put on the hazzard lights. Next thing I did as everyone would ( I assumed) is trying to restart it but it just fired up but stall again a few times. After a few try and pumping a bit of diesel it started up eventually and I drove away with no problem. This morning I started the van with a few splutters too. I manuelly press the fuel filter and it is soft ,which indicates air in the line ? I did not drive it so I don't know is it going to stall again or not.

So is this the symptom of the dreadful injection pump seal on its way out ? There is no black smoke. ( the seal has been changed at Mit. recall in Japan a few years ago. ) If so, is there a member who can do the seal at a fraction of the shop charge as I cannot afford the expense . I have the complete step by step pump removal guide downloaded from the forum but not a mechanic myself for this kind of job.

As cold weather is approaching , I wish to fix this earlier the better. Your help will be very appreciated.

Cheers,
DC

I just had my seal replaced on friday and had the same symptoms as you. Stalling is gone and my pajero (with the same 4m40) runs way better.

So deli1733, where did you have your L300 fixed? And how much it cost you?

Thanks DC

Well my post said i have a pajero with the 4m40 engine soo... I took it to CCautos and it cost more then i was quoted.. as usual.

There are several key O-rings/oil seal that should be replaced when rebuilding IP.
1. IP governor O-ring
**cover on top of IP
2. IP head O-ring
3. Accelator O-ring
**inside the governor, common leaks from this area.
**easily worn out as mileage build up
4. Timer O-rings_ 2 spots
**worn part went flat as they are leaking
** common issue
5. IP main seal
**If worn, no pressure develops and air goes in fuel system
**main cause for starting delay/issue

When you have a IP rebuilt service, you’d better get full rebuilt instead of replacing main seal only.
To replace a main seal ( with 2 O-rings ) only may cost you from $500.

Steven

So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

deli1733 wrote:So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

Preventative replacement to avoid another big money again sooner or later.
How come we replace timing belt kit every 100K even if they are not broken????

Steven

deli 1733
So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

if your L300 runs good no need to do injection pump rebuild.you can just do injection pump seal replace complete.
as if you need to do the injection pump calibrate to somebody who is not familair with this. it might change the setting of your injection pump as they are not used to this type of pump.
need to have a machine to do this.
not all diesel calibration shop who do injection pump know how to do this.
it did happen to me sending the complete injection pump for calibaration but then when installed the setting
was change got to guide them and after 3 times trial then it finally went to the right setting.
not easy.


davidwwc= as per david ip problem.
you just need to do the front injection pump seal for l400 unless its leaking then do complete replacing the seal.no need to change ip setting or do calibration on your pump.
this help a lot as you only burn diesel fuel not oil and diesel fuel on it when starting in the morning with worn out front injection pump seal.
hope this help
Cheers;
mardy

davidwwc wrote:If so, is there a member who can do the seal at a fraction of the shop charge as I cannot afford the expense . I have the complete step by step pump removal guide downloaded from the forum but not a mechanic myself for this kind of job.

If you pull the IP and are not meticulous about marking the timing, you'll have a heck of a time trying to get it started again. That is why this job specifically is reserved for experienced mechanics.

deli1733 wrote:So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

So the service shop can get more money from you. It's just another sneaky sales pitch in an already repeating topic (search IP seal and you'll find the resourceful threads).

http://www.delica.ca/forum/problems-sta ... -8560.html

In all seriousness, an experienced mechanic will be able to tell you when the pump is out whether or not to recommend replacing the other seals. 99.9% of the time, the IP seal on the main shaft is all you have to worry about on the 4M40.

Rising Sun Auto Import wrote:

deli1733 wrote:So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

Preventative replacement to avoid another big money again sooner or later.
How come we replace timing belt kit every 100K even if they are not broken????
Steven

jfarsang wrote:

davidwwc wrote:If so, is there a member who can do the seal at a fraction of the shop charge as I cannot afford the expense . I have the complete step by step pump removal guide downloaded from the forum but not a mechanic myself for this kind of job.

If you pull the IP and are not meticulous about marking the timing, you'll have a heck of a time trying to get it started again. That is why this job specifically is reserved for experienced mechanics.

deli1733 wrote:So what if you pump is fine, and the seal is the only thing replacing... Why spend all that money to fix something that isnt broken???

So the service shop can get more money from you. It's just another sneaky sales pitch in an already repeating topic (search IP seal and you'll find the resourceful threads).

In all seriousness, an experienced mechanic will be able to tell you when the pump is out whether or not to recommend replacing the other seals. 99.9% of the time, the IP seal on the main shaft is all you have to worry about on the 4M40.

It is the same theory you can replace all parts including timing belt…. when your water pump is out.
Depending on your budget though.
Main seal with complete O ring set cost you only $100 something . But you have to pay overhaul labour and others if you have problem in future. Remember we are driving at least 15 year old diesel.

It is not a sales pitch.
Previously discussed topic can be repeated at anytime as we are not sure they are 100% true.

Steven

The OP is asking about the main shaft seal which is common.

We all know this. YOU know this.

We also know that Mitsubishi started using viton seals in their injection pumps from 1994 and onwards, which means your push to rebuild the IP and replace all the seals in an L400/4M40 is misleading.

You know full well what words you post and what they mean along with your continuous posting of your pictures/parts for sale. That my fellow delica.ca member IS A SALES PITCH !

jfarsang wrote:The OP is asking about the main shaft seal which is common.

We all know this. YOU know this.

We also know that Mitsubishi started using viton seals in their injection pumps from 1994 and onwards, which means your push to rebuild the IP and replace all the seals in an L400/4M40 is misleading.

You know full well what words you post and what they mean along with your continuous posting of your pictures/parts for sale. That my fellow delica.ca member IS A SALES PITCH !

You still have a biased thought against Rising Sun Auto Import.
Did I mention we are doing IP rebuilt service? How do you know we do?

OP is not a mechanic, so he just assumes it was caused by main seal failure.
Mechanical IP is not perfect as it needs service sometime ( all our delica came before 1996, already passed 15 years ).
It is very common accelerator oring fail as mileage has gone too much, but sometimes we misjudge its failure for TPS, transmission issue, etc.

If you do the main seal replacement while doing the timing job or head job, you will save huge labour cost.
That’s what I am saying.

Rising Sun Auto Import wrote:

MardyDelica wrote:bassnailer=
i have oil filter in stock made in japan for L300 and l400
pls just call em anytime cheers;\
mardy

As far as I understand, commercial ads have been restricted in delica forum. When you need some parts, search wiki or delica trader. If you need special products that are hard to find, you may get replies from other members. Just my thought. I maybe wrong.

Steven

I expected some bitter comment from jfarsang, but not

Steven

Hi Moderator,
Can you move this thread to “Last word Café” if you think this is off topic?

Oh thanks everyone for your valuable informations. I am really appreciated the concern of my case as it is always given to all members here . So I assume from that point I am having the classic IP main seal problem . I have to find way to squeeze that kind of money before anything can be done....

Cheers,
DC

I did the dreaded IP seal about a month ago in my wife's L400. She had the usual stalling issues for a few months before I decided to take a stab at replacing it. I bought an entire bosch seal kit of ebay for $27.00. Her van only has 85K on it so I decided to just do the one seal and any others I deemed easy to replace. I really took my time, cleaned every part while it was out. Total time was around 6 hours. Timing is slightly advanced now so I've got to spend another hour or so to pull it back to where i want it, but it started instantly and hasn't let her down since. Not the easiest job but very rewarding. Saving $500+ doesn't hurt either!

How come we replace timing belt kit every 100K even if they are not broken????

..chains on the 4m40 don't need to be replaced at 100k kms...as they are not belts

Yes the fuel pump is a weakness in the series 1's (94-4/97 (mechanical pump) but can be as simple as a ill fitting fuel filter as well that others have experienced.

Also don't assume the the Pajero pump is the same as it is not (often mooted on fleabay) and even some of the Delica's ones don't interchange (ensure same part number on the pump itself)