Starter Motor Issues

philmeup1 · Post by **philmeup1** » Mon Sep 23, 2019 5:47 pm

Hello folks,

After fixing my leaking fuel tank woes, I'm now stuck with another problem. I went to start up my van this afternoon, but no dice:( I turned the key, waited for the glow plug click then turned the key all the way. All I ended up with was one click sound after the glow plug click sound. I tapped the starter a few times, but it doesn't seem to want to turn over. I have all my lights and everything else electrical working, so I'm assuming it must be the starter.

My van is a 1993 Super Exceed with only 150K on the clock. But the van is now 23 years young. And as the band Kansas once wrote, Nothing lasts forever but the earth and sky....

So I looked up getting a new starter from Amayama, but they only seem to sell all the parts, and not the complete unit. Surely you can purchase a new complete starter from anayama right? The other question I have is how hard is it to re/re this part? And the last question I have is about installing a block heater while the starter is out. Apparently there's an excellent location to install a winter block heater right behind the starter motor where there's a frost plug. I suppose I should do this while I have the starter out.

Anyway, if anyone has any insight to all of this, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance for any and all advice given.

Cheers,

Phil

philmeup1 · Post by **philmeup1** » Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:16 pm

Well I think I found the part number. It's MD072654. I went on amayama.com and it sells for about $1000 bucks!!! Yikes

So that's outta the question. I guess I'll see if I can find someone to rebuild the original starter

And in the meantime, I believe I'll have one more cocktail

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Sep 23, 2019 11:39 pm

Before you go spending all the moneys, try a couple of tests for me?

: l300_12v_egr_hyundai_mitsubishi_starter_motor_m2t56181_js344_16853_1_year.jpg (17.74 KiB) Viewed 5515 times

Make sure it's in neutral.
Using one side of a pair of jumper leads, apply 12V to the small spade terminal (A, red)

If the starter runs, you have a wiring fault between the starter relay and the starter spade terminal- or a burnt out/faulty fusible link in the battery compartment.

If the starter doesn't run, apply 12V to terminal B (blue). That's the terminal with the braided wire bolted to it, not the terminal with the battery power feed (though it's not a problem if you connect to the wrong terminal. Heck, try them both just to be sure). That runs the motor directly. If the starter now runs, you have a fault with the starter motor solenoid- the large cylinder with all the terminals on top of the starter motor itself. Starter solenoids are much cheaper than entire starter motors.

If the starter doesn't operate for either test, the motor is burnt out.

philmeup1 · Post by **philmeup1** » Tue Sep 24, 2019 2:47 pm

Thanks for this Growler. After 4 vodkas in, I decided to clear my mind and think about what I may have overlooked that's simple. So I climbed in the van, put the shifter into neutral and cranked it over. Boom, it started right up!! I then put it back in park and shut it off. It started right back up. Even when it was in park.

It's been working fine today, but I may have to invest in a neutral safety switch at some point soon.

So what's the lesson here? Don't always assume the worst. I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't try this before coming straight on here and asking for help.

Anyway, it was my 50th birthday yesterday, and this was the highlight of the day!! I always feel good when I'm able to sort something out on my own:)

deskinthewoods · Post by **deskinthewoods** » Tue Sep 24, 2019 5:32 pm

Ah, the jump to worst case scenario...

I noticed the coolant expansion reservoir was empty on Saturday. I looked everywhere for a leak but couldn’t see any clues. My brain went straight to, “F**k me, I’ve blown the head gasket!!!”.
Spent the rest of the weekend with google reading about symptoms of blown head gaskets and tests and running back and forth between the computer and the van. Finally I had to just top it up and go for a beer run (it’s my only vehicle at the moment). Got home and checked the coolant level and there was the pinhole leak in the upper rad hose, plain as day, pissing out a steady stream. I hadn’t thought to run it until hot and pressurized!!!

“Phew!”, to say the least.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Tue Sep 24, 2019 9:37 pm

Hah! the pinhole leak is a classic. I had an MG that ran fine until it got hot, then started misfiring until it stopped. Clearly an electrical/spark misfire.
Replaced the coil and condenser (they can fail when hot). Replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and leads. Spark plugs. Points. Checked all the wiring. Bypassed the ignition switch. No change after each action: it ran fine until hot, then conked out.

2 days later I took off the hood and went for a drive and discovered that when hot enough, a pinhole leak in the top radiator hose would spray a fine mist of water directly onto the distributor. The water spray stopped instantly when the engine was shut off, and the water on the distributor would evaporate pretty much immediately.

jbsocdelica · Post by **jbsocdelica** » Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:19 pm

A special thanks to Mardy helping me out of jam.

Short of it:

a) Changed the glow plugs myself (yeaaaa!)

b) Car started beautifully, then wouldn't start, nothing after click, then would, then wouldn't
again and again. Bummer.

c) Did a little gear shifting and the car started and then didn't

d) Called Mardi (Amazing Imports) to get some advice.

e) He went over the glow plug installation (checked out) and then had me go through a couple of things:
-- check battery connection and fuseable link (the latter I'll do manana in sunlight)
-- and do the Park - Neutral dance a few times with some brake tapping

f) Started right up.

So I'm left with:

a. Going to replace my batteries and check for tightness after (Replaced today)
b. Going to check fuseable link condition (looked ok)
c. Going to try to move car a little and actually drive it (yes, then wouldn't start after stopping)
d. Going to look for a wd40 spot to spray for where the neutral safety switch is? (not yet, maybe not necessary)

Point D, is actually a question for all of you. I got this idea from a guy who was working on Pajeros and sprayed he did...

Oh, now there is point E.

e. Wouldn't start after putting in new batteries, tapped starter, started right up. Inclined to think starter..

so now to this from another Deli member...

"1. Using one side of a pair of jumper leads, apply 12V to the small spade terminal (A, red)

2. If the starter runs, you have a wiring fault between the starter relay and the starter spade terminal- or a burnt out/faulty fusible link in the battery compartment.

3. If the starter doesn't run, apply 12V to terminal B (blue). That's the terminal with the braided wire bolted to it, not the terminal with the battery power feed (though it's not a problem if you connect to the wrong terminal. Heck, try them both just to be sure).

4. That runs the motor directly. If the starter now runs, you have a fault with the starter motor solenoid- the large cylinder with all the terminals on top of the starter motor itself. Starter solenoids are much cheaper than entire starter motors.

5. If the starter doesn't operate for either test, the motor is burnt out."

Any thoughts are always welcome,

Mahalo and Cheers!