Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

north54 wrote:Too smoky IMO. It was -1 C a couple weeks ago in Vancouver and my 89' spat out a couple puffs then thats it.

And I would wager my van is a lot more tired than most 89's out there!

Couple questions: You mentioned you replaced the glow plugs with genuine Mitsubishi. Did you test them before installation?

When was the last time you cleaned your battery terminals?. This helped my van start a little quicker in the cold wet weather we're having. I've got the dual batteries with bus bar showing corrosion, cleaned them with sandpaper and tightened up the bolts.

Good luck

I did not test the new glow plugs before I installed them. That being said, it did the same thing with the old plugs, FWIW.

My battery terminals are totally free of corrosion.

Is it possible a gasket on the injection pump is letting air in when cold and throwing off the mix?

I was thinking this week: Would it be possible that the EGR valve is stuck open or fouling? I had a Suzuki Sidekick with a dodgy EGR system. When the system would get plugged up, it'd idle like crap and would throw a code. Of course, if I manually pushed up on the diaphragm, it'd stumble, etc. Thoughts?

I gather malfunctioning egr systems cause a certain amount of smoking issues on these engines. mine has been 'blanked', that is, there are plates installed to restrict exhaust from entering the intake even if the controller wants there to be. The egr mechanism has been left in place, and I wonder what thickness of metal is doing the blanking. I'm also thinking about all this for my VW TDI, where it would also require a ECU 'tune'. But not in this case. Our ECU is more like a glow/egr control unit, since the fuel injection is mechanically governed.

This is my van cold starting on an above freezing morning with a circulation type heater running for an hour or so. I'm too smokey for the city, that is for sure! It's smokes severely in the below freezing temps and I don't dare try in it's current condition. As you can see it only took 10min to stop smoking (FFward to 9min to save a bit of time I'd suggest).

I'm not a fan of the heater installation. It's in the bottom rad hose and concentrates heat around it without much circulation because of the short distance to the thermostat above it. So it works good with the engine hot (or I imagine with the t-stat removed) but I get coolant sweating out of the iffy looking hose (btw, does anyone have a line on a lower rad hose in Edmonton?) if plugged in for long. My preference would be the same sort of heater only made to ciruclate via heater hose.

I'm interested in getting wiring diagrams for the glow/egr controller circuitry, or 'ECU' and perhaps moving to a manual GP system while I attempt to resolve my van's issues. In other configurations, I've retrofitted a momentary-on, two-position toggle switch as relay controllers. One position (up) for full glow. Down for after-glow. I'm guessing that the lower voltage plugs on the delica system mean there is no need to interupt the alternator to protect them from over-voltage when running, in which case manual after-glow is made more simple on the delica. If this were a true cold climate diesel the dropping resistor would be an intake heater!

Crankshaft Culture wrote: It was about 45 F/7 C. Too smokey?

It looks like you let it idle at low speed for a while, then rev it up. If that's the case, try cranking with the accelerator pedal about halfway down, and then when it starts keep the revs around 1200-1500rpm until the smoke clears. The smoke should go away much sooner. By letting it idle at 750rpm you're coating the precombustion chambers with cold, unburnt diesel, which takes a while to burn off.

That said, I've seen diesels that won't rev above 1000rpm when first started, and that's usually just engine wear, low compression, or bad glow plugs.

weelsey wrote: I'm interested in getting wiring diagrams for the glow/egr controller circuitry, or 'ECU'

There's a full workshop manual in the Technical Reference Library: http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17809 but the diagram you're after is this one: Your cold-start video makes me wonder if one (or more) of your injectors has a bad spray pattern.

Growlerbearnz wrote:

weelsey wrote: Your cold-start video makes me wonder if one (or more) of your injectors has a bad spray pattern.

Yeah, I'm starting to wonder if it's injectors, too. I'm running through a bottle of Diesel Kleen (multiple treatments) to see if we can get the injectors a bit cleaner. I was also considering putting in a bottle of Diesel Dry to make sure there isn't any water getting in. Finally, I need to replace the fuel filter.

Diagrams

Ah. Thank-you. It currently has after-cool.

Your cold-start video makes me wonder if one (or more) of your injectors has a bad spray pattern.

I've been thinking the same and may have identified the worst offender today. Worse since seal replacement. Sucks working outside. Can make you late for dinner and get crap in your injectors. after I opened everything up the leaf blowers and mulching mowers started up at the cousin's neighbours, just feet away. Is why I prefer more than a 32nd of an acre.

Round two will include taking pump to pump guy along with injectors to get tested. Am in the market for nozzles, crush, wave washers. Hope they have shims near by since these look like standard injector bodies.
Perhaps washers
Bosch 2430 190 002 wave
and
AMBAC WMR 2041/7X crush

Nozzle thoughts?
135bar pop off?

Slack tires might get it in a standard garage door.

Your MD171459/460 should have 118bar injectors (https://fuel-inject.com/zexel/1047408222/)

are there non-mitsu part numbers for the injector seals?
MD070718, MD070717, and MD068355
I can give the injection service folks

weelsey wrote:are there non-mitsu part numbers for the injector seals?
MD070718, MD070717, and MD068355
I can give the injection service folks

Google suggests:

MD070718= Zexel 093133-0150
MD070717= Bosch 2 916 710 608
MD068355= Zexel 23654-64010a

I just had my mechanic take a look at the van (had a bunch of work done including thermostat, belts, sticky clutch, new brake fluid). Apparently the fuel filter had never been replaced, by the way. Like never. He said it looked like this was the original one (the van has 130,000 km on it). Going to pick the van up in 30 minutes.

He did wonder if the diesel fuel in the area might be a culprit for the rough, smokey starts. Oregon (at least Portland) has as minimum 5% biodiesel mandate, which he theorized might have something to do with the rough, smokey starts in cooler weather. (Said the glow plug system was working.) He also said the ultra low sulfur diesel might play into the equation, too.

What do you all think?

Ugh. A clogged fuel filter can produce all sorts of weird symptoms. Hopefully it runs better with the new filter.

I'd be surprised if the fuel composition would cause that much of a difference, people run all sorts of oils through their engines and they're usually fine. I believe most diesel in the US has biodiesel in it, as the biodiesel restores the lubricity lost when the sulphur was removed. If a manufacturer adds less than 5% biodiesel they don't have to label it.

weelsey wrote:are there non-mitsu part numbers for the injector seals?
MD070718, MD070717, and MD068355

This is the heat shield from Mitsubishi (MD070718 copper) and perhaps suitable stand-ins from Toyota diesels that use the same nozzle type (PDN). Dimensions are considerably the same (10.8mm O.D., 7.8mm I.D., 1.5mm un-crushed width). The obvious difference is the material (incidentally there are also two different pairs of toyota sheilds shown here - one stainless, the other apparently a more feromagnetic steel), but the less noticeable difference is that the edge of the curl is outward on the copper and inward on the others.

Any reason I should not go Toyota?

The toyota may use a injector protector cup in addition, but this would have no effect on the potential for carbon to accumulate in the recess of the shield.

Perhaps I'll be trying three different shields in my injector work and can report back on the results.

Are those washers going to crush without damaging the heads mating surfaces?

Good question, ChuckBlack. I was wondering myself what the difference was going to be in the compression characteristics of the different seals and if more torque would be required to sink them hard against the shoulder washers.
The injector bore, I would hope, is capable of handling the differences in the material strengths, so long as the travel of steel ones is sufficient. I cannot see any significant difference in the space that is allowed for compression in the steel units. The phots don't show the curl of the shield in order to gain sense of how they far they will crush. But the travel looks good. perhaps the seats will need to be especially clean in order to conform to the seat.