Hyundai D4BF engine install

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Growlerbearnz
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:23 pm

So I might have squee'd a little...
engine.JPG
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Engine2.JPG
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It's a frikkin 4D56. It even says so on the engine block. It says "Hyundai" on a bunch of other parts, but I don't mind.

More info on the engine: Hyundai makes 4D56 engines under license, though they use their own naming conventions. The one that's most like ours (mechanical injection, non-intercooler) is the D4BF http://www.hyundaiengine.com/auto_diesel/06_d4bh.html.

The engine block castings still say "4D56". The engine block even has "MMC" cast into it. There's a bunch of laser-etched Hyundai part numbers on there too, but the block and head are absolutely Mitsubishi. I'll go over the engine differences in detail later when I have my old engine next to it.

I ordered this one through a local engine importer who brings things in from Korea. Cost was CD$5800. In my defence, rebuilding my exisiting block with genuine parts would have cost about $3500. This engine also comes with a new injection pump ($1200), turbo ($850), alternator ($200), head ($900) and injectors ($450), so really I'm *saving* money. (Note: this justification may not work on all spouses. I recommend practising your presentation.)


More observations and swap process as it happens.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby lrp374 » Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:51 pm

It is VERY shiny!!! :-D

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ChuckBlack
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby ChuckBlack » Wed Oct 04, 2017 10:45 pm

Does it now have a timing chain or is it still a belt?
:M Beautiful Delica Alberta
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Growlerbearnz
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Thu Oct 05, 2017 1:56 am

ChuckBlack wrote:Does it now have a timing chain or is it still a belt?


Still a belt. It's the same 4D56 as ever, just with all the improvements they added over the years.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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archieim
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby archieim » Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:29 am

What the back ground on this?
This motor is shippped to you and it’s an exact match give or take to a 4D56 which can be found in most L300. This one is brand new?


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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Captain America » Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:55 am

Growler,
The pic of that engine makes me drool. Kinda like the good feeling I get when I catch a whif of motorcycle exhaust. Good for you! Can't wait to see it installed. On a related note I was wondering if you considered the new Cummins diesel crate engine (r.2 4cylinder) that I have been hearing about?

Regards,
Cap

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Growlerbearnz
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:06 pm

archieim wrote:What the back ground on this?
This motor is shippped to you and it’s an exact match give or take to a 4D56 which can be found in most L300. This one is brand new?
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Yup, brand new. (The brand is "Hyundai" ;-)). Fresh off the boat from Korea. Assembly marker on every screw and bolt. Exhaust ports have a light dusting of soot from the test run on the assembly line, everything else is spotless.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:17 pm

Captain America wrote:Growler,
The pic of that engine makes me drool. Kinda like the good feeling I get when I catch a whif of motorcycle exhaust. Good for you! Can't wait to see it installed. On a related note I was wondering if you considered the new Cummins diesel crate engine (r.2 4cylinder) that I have been hearing about?


I thought briefly about changing the engine, but I'm too lazy. Apart from the hassle of engine mounts, transmission adapter plates, and re-routing all the plumbing, an engine swap needs to be certified by an engineer here. And since they become liable if anything goes wrong they usually want to inspect every step of the process. It's slow and frustrating.

I'm getting enough power out of the 4D56 anyway. The transmission is allegedly good up to 300ft.lb of torque, and I really don't want to blow it up. Again.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Captain America » Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:14 am

Growler,
I've read of the Hyundai 456d engine here and on other forums. I recall seeing some specs but would like to hear from the most recent install.Other than being brand new does it offer more HP/Torque(via updates) than the original found in our l300's?

Regards,
Cap

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Sat Oct 07, 2017 3:26 pm

Captain America wrote: Other than being brand new does it offer more HP/Torque(via updates) than the original found in our l300's?


Not officially. The updates I've noticed are mostly* to strengthen the engine so it *could* make more power, as the engine block is shared with the higher-output D4BH. Extra ribs on the block casting, new brackets to stop things flexing, water-cooled turbo, that kind of thing.

The D4BH is the same engine except plumbed for an intercooler, and with an ECU-controlled injection pump. It's still a VE pump, it's just fly-by-wire rather than cables (look up VE-EDC if you're researching). Being able to control injection timing as well as quantity makes higher boost possible, and I was tempted, but converting my all-mechanical setup to fly-by-wire sounded like too much work, let alone tracking down an ECU and loom that was never fitted to any vehicle in New Zealand, and figuring out how to connect the automatic transmission.

*Mostly- the other updates are to prevent oil leaks. Alloy half-moon seal on the head, rocker cover retained by three bolts, much larger oil separator in the rocker cover.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Daron » Sun Oct 08, 2017 5:23 am

Wow, please keep us updated on your progress!


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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:46 pm

I've been a bit slack about reporting my progress. I may have been distracted by something :-)

First up, uninstall the old engine:
Disconnect battery.
Remove passenger door, seats, engine covers.
Drain coolant and oil
Remove radiator, fan, fan clutch, air inlet pipes, accelerator cable, Transmission cable, fuel lines, starter, earth straps.
Unbolt air conditioner pump and power steering pump and move them aside.
MoveACpump.JPG
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Remove the lower bellhousing cover and undo the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. (An Allen key in the ring gear teeth works brilliantly to stop the flywheel turning)
Remove exhaust, oil cooler line banjo bolts, vacuum pipes from alternator.
Support the engine and transmission. Keep the engine crane's boom as close to the engine as possible, or the engine won't fit out the door. When I did it I had 5mm to spare.
removing.JPG
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Remove the bellhousing to engine bolts
Undo the lower bolts on the engine mounts. In theory you could undo the top nuts, but if your engine mounts have compressed (like mine had) it's almost impossible to get a spanner in there.
Mounts.JPG
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(Picture stolen from teh internets. My new engine mounts are still somewhere over the Pacific.)

Protect the AC radiator, as the engine will come very close to it while removing.
Remove engine.

Wash hands. Ugh. SO DIRTY.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:11 pm

And now, marvel at the mighty, mighty, shiny D4BF:

(notes: alloy half-moon seal, water-cooled turbo pipes, new flywheel and clutch)
back.JPG
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(notes: primitive alternator tensioner, no AC pulley (but drilled for it), timing belt cover with access plug for tensioner.)
front.JPG
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(notes: water pump outlet is at a different angle. Alternator plug is different.)
TurboSide.JPG
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(notes: Dipstick. IP linkages.)
IPside.JPG
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To fit it to a Delica you will need to swap;

Injection pump linkages. The Hyundai ones are basic, and the idle speed adjuster is on the back of the pump where it's difficult to access. The IP has all the correct holes for mounting the Mitsubishi linkages.
IPlinkages.JPG
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The main accelerator lever is attached to the pump's shaft with splines. I set the pump to idle speed, removed the Hyundai arm and installed the Mitsubishi one in the same position, more or less. I might be one spline out.


Injection pump plugs will plug into the existing wiring harness, but Hyundai have swapped some of the wire positions around, which is insane. You'll have to trace which wires go to which pins on your old IP and move the Hyundai pins to match. Yank out the coloured plastic tag in the middle of the plug, gently lever the black plastic locking tag away from the pin, and then swap the pins to the correct positions. Reinstall the coloured plastic tag.
Plug1.JPG
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plug2.JPG
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The tachometer sender black wire needs to be connected to the earth wire (the thick wire with the ring terminal). I pulled the sleeving back and made the join where it will never be seen.
TachoEarth.JPG
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Sump and oil pickup need to be swapped over. The Mitsubishi oil pickup is bolted to a special bolt on one of the bearing caps- you'll need to swap that bolt over to the new engine. Caution: the D4BF is supplied full of oil.
BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW SUMP swap the dipstick position over. The block is drilled for both dipstick positions, simply knock the blanking plug out of the rear hole and reinstall it in the front.
PickupOld.JPG
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PickupNew.JPG
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You'll also need to swap the alternator oil drain pipe.

Other observations:
The steel inlet manifold pipe needed a tiny piece filed off one of the mounting tags to clear a new protrusion on the inlet manifold.

Swapping the flywheel for the flexplate was straightforward, they even use the same length bolts.

The alternator plug is a different style. Not an issue for me, as I'm keeping my old alternator (it's a 90A rather than the D4BF's 75A). Swap the alternator tensioners over.

Oil pressure light switch also has a different plug- I just swapped the switches.

Oil cooler lines are attached with banjo bolts, so there's no issues there (unlike on a Pajero engine).
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:56 pm

It's installed and runs! There's still a bit of work to do reinstalling engine covers and whatnot, but at least the engine fires up.

One disappointment: the tachometer no longer works. The sensor on the new pump checks out the same as the old one. As a troubleshooting step I swapped it for the old one, and nothing improved. I'm assuming the new pump's tachometer signal is weaker than it should be- I'll investigate once I have everything put back together properly.

Edit: resolved! The black wire from the tachometer sensor needs to be connected to the earth wire in the IP loom.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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joebillhill
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby joebillhill » Tue Oct 10, 2017 11:12 am

Woo! Nicely done growlerbear! I'm curious how your tachometer troubleshooting goes as mine is about 1k slower than it should show all the time


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