Glow plug 'click'

[nxski]

I just installed new glow plugs and now I'm not getting the click to tell me they've warmed up. The vehicle still starts but I'd like to have the click for cycling them in the winter. Can anyone think of why this might happen?

[jessef]

check the fuse at the battery that goes to the solenoid/glow plug relay.

check with a voltmeter to see if current is passing through the wire that goes to the bus bar and at the click intervals if it spikes.

[nxski]

I'll look into that with lole when we do the next batch of work. Thanks

[TardisDeli]

Nick, do NOT wait to test this. Deal with it today .... it is cheaper to miss a day of work than to rebuild your engine.

Test as Jesse Farsang describes.

If the glow plugs are not shutting off, then the tips will burn "on" too long and burn out (envision the glow plugs are a cigarette with the betaing end a glowing red hot ash tip)... with 2 outcomes: best case scenario they just need replacing immediately; worst case scenario the red hot metal end falls off (just like cigarette ends do) and the red hot tip falls into a piston, and now the piston and shaft are toally broken and you need a new engine .... there is an actual example of this EXACT sad scenario on the Butch / CVI customer counter as a warning.

Your No-Click is from only one of 2 events: power IS going into glow plugs "red hot cigarette" ends but NOT shutting off, hence burning up your new glow plugs (time to buy more $$$$$); or else power is NOT going into glow plugs (since the weather is still unseasonablly warm you would not notice the lack of glow plugs (until this weekend when the weather will start to get colder). Then you will be posting another on how come you can't start, and now have ruined your starter motor / battery / etc.

Perhaps your new plugs are the wrong voltage, there are 2 different voltage plugs (6v vs 11.6volt) which MUST match the voltge of the circuit board that sits behind you and goes click ... just one click, otherwise read my postings (search Norther Ontario) on Morse code clicks and how you NEED a new coolant sensor asap. Again, coolant sensor becomes noticeable in October when our weather cools. The board may have an old age failure of one of the capacitors, can take to an old fashioned little old TV repair man or ham radio operator (they just look at board, see which component is oozy and toasted, go buy a new matching one and solder it on).

So, deal with it today .... it is cheaper to miss a day of work than to rebuild your engine.

Then on to your other post: regarding a loose screw rattling somewhere in your engine area, DUDE, deal with it. If it was stainless steel (ie from Jay) then it is not magnetic; however if it came from elsewhere it is more likely to be usual vehicle quality of regular steel and so it IS magnetic, so go get one of those telescoping magnetic picker up things (like a car radio antenna with a magnet on the end) and poke around). If it actually is INSIDE your engine, it is destructive. IF it is wandering outside the engine, it can affect belts etc.

Look after your deli, or the Deli Police come to take it away (they live inside of my head). (name the song misquoted). Christine.

[nxski]

I'll see what I can do. Lole installed them and said it wasn't a problem although couldn't figure out why it's not clicking. I guess I'll find out this morning if it starts or not. The glow plugs are the correct voltage (6) and they clicked up until they were installed. Unfortunately I have at least 3 days of driving until I'll have a chance to test it though.

There isn't a screw in the engine, that's just the sound it makes and I have had 3 mechanics look at it so far with different ideas on what it is but all said it's still drivable.

Thanks for the response

UPDATE: it was difficult to start this morning and a huge cloud of black smoke came out. It did start though.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Look after your deli, or the Deli Police come to take it away (they live inside of my head). (name the song misquoted). Christine.

"I want my Deli to want me..... I need my Deli to need me.... I'd love my Deli to love me.... I'm beggin' my Deli to beg me....."

[nxski]

I'm at Lole's trying to repair it now, all the connections appear to be good, the fuse is fine. He's taking a look at the ECU now. After work I went to start it up again...lots of smoke, turned over for a long time and about 10 seconds after I got it running I hear about 10 glow plug clicks. Does this help at all or just make it more confusing?

I'm about to lose my head with all of these sudden issues that can't seem to be diagnosed!

EDIT: ECU appears to have power going in and no power going out.

[nxski]

Well, still no definite answers, but, we took the ECU control unit out and I'll bring it somewhere (suggestions?) to be tested. In the meantime I hope for the best and try to drive it for the next fee days with no glow plugs.

[thedjjack]

I find it interesting that the ECU goes the minute new glow plugs are installed....It makes me think the glow plugs are wrong....

If you have block heater plug it in it should plug the Delica Shrine in to help with cold starts...careful that you next post is not about starter rebuilds

[nxski]

I found it to be a very weird coincidence but the old ones and new ones are 6v. I won't push the starter very hard, if it doesn't start after turning over a couple times I guess I'll be stuck on public transit 5 hours a day for the next 3-5 days.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

I found it to be a very weird coincidence but the old ones and new ones are 6v. I won't push the starter very hard, if it doesn't start after turning over a couple times I guess I'll be stuck on public transit 5 hours a day for the next 3-5 days.

PM sent.

Steven

[jessef]

http://www.delica.ca/forum/glow-plug-co ... -4028.html

It probably has some parts/capacitors,etc.. that need to be replaced which is common on ECU's.

If you take it out and take it to an electronics shop, most places will fix it.

It doesn't matter what vehicle it comes out of. The capacitors/boards/IC's are generic automotive electronic parts.

I know this because BlueStreak rep reconditions ALL ECU's for all manufacturer's and I watched them do mine. Was pretty neat.

If you want to keep it local, take it to a Blue Streak dealer. Wakefield Sperling in Langley is one.

In my 2.5 Pajero, a pair of capacitors and an IC kept blowing due to a faulty solenoid and crappy wiring. Each time I took it in, it cost be around $70 for a professional repair.

Keep in mind that these ECU's are the same as the handful of Mitsu ECU's that come in North American vehicles and are repaired the same.

Or if you want to keep it JDM, just call the usual dealers and pick the one you want to do business with.

All of them deal with malfunctioning ECU's including the one flashing his business card above.

In alpha order:

Abbotsford Japan Auto
Amazing Auto Imports
Assiniboine Imports
Coombs Country Auto
CVI Automotive
Japanoid
Maximum Overdrive
Rising Sun Imports

[nxski]

Thanks Jesse, I'd rather have it repaired for $70 than pay $500 for a new one

Sorry, I read that post but failed to see where it had been repaired.

[Strada 92]

Check your coolant temperature sensor,the one with two wire on it,just beside the number one glow plug.Maybe when you change glow plugs,you disconnect it,move the connector or something.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Check your coolant temperature sensor,the one with two wire on it,just beside the number one glow plug.Maybe when you change glow plugs,you disconnect it,move the connector or something.

X2